Stephen pid=69557 dateline=1579805860 said:
I also used a similar chord shapes sheet (mine was for C-system CBA) like yours for B-system.
And I found this to be very useful in my CBA study.
I like the way you mark the tonic with a different colour (in red) from the other notes of the chord shape (in blue). I find this to be a good way to visualise inversed chords (first inversion, second inversion ...).
In the first two lines (the major and minor chord shapes), I also added the tonic of the next octave (but, in your case, with a blue color), so I made 4 notes chord shapes for my major and minor chords (with the basic tonic pitch + the tonic pitched an octave higher).
You can also use your shapes to visualise scales in different modes.
What I like is that you dont fill in the names of the notes in every circle, you only indicate the root note. This has also for me been the simplest and easiest way to learn about interval shapes on the CBA.
You can also add sheets to visualise all sorts of intervals between just two notes: the root + a major second , the root + a fourth, .... , and this from the 1st row of buttons, the 2nd row ad the 3rd row.
Thank you for these attachments in your post.
Thanks for the encouragement, Stephen.
My knowledge of theory isnt up to tackling modes yet, but I may add those later as I progress. I intentionally left the note letters out, to make the pattern transferable for all four root notes on each row. When I come to do the scale patterns, Ill certainly be adding in the root at both ends, so the approach is visible from either direction.
maugein96 pid=69558 dateline=1579810793 said:
AW,
Those felt pads are normally quite a distance up from the keyboard, and as such should have no effect on the button travel. If you check the height of the treble buttons from the keyboard the bass buttons should be a similar height up. If the felt pads are so close to the keyboard that theyre causing the buttons to stick then something is wrong. It sounds as though the whole bass mechanism may have dropped slightly, but I dont know enough about the inner workings to guess the cause, if indeed that is what has happened.
Sore fingers are unfortunately a side effect of such adventures as you have undertaken, but Im sure youll get it all worked out in the end.
I think originally, there was something caught between the button stems and the holes they pass through, as some buttons were sticking/rubbing throughout their full travel range. This seems to have cleared now, and the buttons only stick when fully depressed.
The felts are nipped between the cap and stem, and the bass buttons do travel all the way down, which is why the felt is there in the first place - to stop the underside of the plastic cap clattering against the plastic casing. However, with use, that usage has caused the felts to compress and spread out past the diameter of the screw on cap. As the section beneath the keys is stepped, the squidged out felts are now rubbing against, and jamming against, the risers between the steps. Therefore, I am hoping that just reducing the diameter of the felts to be at or slightly less than the diameter of the cap, will give enough clearance to stop this happening. If thats not the case, then the felt must be catching on the aperture itself somehow. None of the pads are tacky, so they arent sticking to the plastic casing.
Ill trim down the problematic felts slightly, as I replace and test each cap, and hopefully this will cure it.