Repair wood Frame Bass Side.

[32251]

Interesting repair to do on this accordion. No damage to the outer bass cover plate so how did this interior left side frame of the bass assembly get split? Good that all the wood pieces are sill inside. Will have to pull the last 4 button rods and start lining it all back up and glue it back. Never ending the damage you run into with accordions.

 

[32251]

Broken piece is glued up. I will reinforce with some more wooden pieces over the cracks for strength. Other pic is the re-adjusted bass axles and all the tines now correct. Several places where the linkage was messed up and not allowing the tines to move up and down correctly. Found all those and fixed them. Before you can reinstall the rest of the bass rods/buttons, all the tines on the shafts have to press down easily and spring back up. Several shafts were not working correctly. If you follow the shafts and look how the linkage to the pallets engage, you will eventually find where things have jumped out of alignment.

 

[boxplayer4000]

32251: It looks like you were fortunate in that there was enough room to use the clamps. With good glue it will be stronger than the original.
Was the original damage caused by being dropped in transit etc?

 

[debra]

When you use good wood glue (like Titebond III) the repair should be more or less as strong as the origina. wood, if not stronger.

 

[32251]

32251: It looks like you were fortunate in that there was enough room to use the clamps. With good glue it will be stronger than the original.
Was the original damage caused by being dropped in transit etc?

No idea as to the cause. I buy cheap accordions online…all sorts of places…never know what I get till I open the box. No way a pic will show inside damage. I did. See the buttons were not all up, but this is for sure damage from shock. So far so good on the repair. The cracked support for the four rows of bass chord buttons is glued back in and I boxed in the support top and one side with a couple thin pieces of wood for more support. Will only have to redrill the hole for the lockdown screw.

 

[32251]

When you use good wood glue (like Titebond III) the repair should be more or less as strong as the origina. wood, if not stronger.

I have to admit that I am still using original Titebond glue now since the 1970s. Is III really worth swapping to?

 

[debra]

I have to admit that I am still using original Titebond glue now since the 1970s. Is III really worth swapping to?

The Titebond III glue was recommended to me as the glue to use in accordion manufacturing and repair (since the older "bone" glue was being fased out). I have been using Titebond III for all wood repair, especially in accordions, and I must say it is very strong.

 

[JKJ]

I have to admit that I am still using original Titebond glue now since the 1970s. Is III really worth swapping to?

Titebond III is a bit stronger than the II and the original, but not enough to make a practical difference.

Titebond III is more water-resistant than II which is more water-resistant than the original. None of this should apply to accordion repair or construction. For cutting boards and such, I prefer to use epoxy though others I know use Titebond III.

Titebond III has a working time of about twice that of the original and TItebond II. This is the reason some of those I know who work with wood use III, especially those who are assembling a number of pieces - gives more time to position the pieces before clamping.

For woodturning, I generally use Titebond III which works well for almost everything.

For things with joints that may need to be taken apart some day in the future for repair, such as when rebuilding a player piano, I was advised to use only hide glue. Applying moderate localized heat will soften hide glue even after many decades. Also, when splitting joints they will sometimes separate cleanly at the glue line. Not so for modern glues such as Titebond!

JKJ

 

[32251]

Another one saved, on to the next one. This unit had the ability to remove the first row of button links….the diminished row. I removed three at a time setting them next to the bass unit as left/middle/right. That gives plenty of working room then position the linkage for the major/minor links for three full rows getting the button in the right opening and the tines correct. Then remove three more and repeat till all were done. Then set the four button rows in the wooden end holders and move side to side till everything moves nicely and then lock down with the two screws one on each end. R/R of the bass section can be an adventure for sure.