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Anybody ever make your own Mylar reed valves?

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Nate74

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As I sit with my little Hohner Student all taken apart waiting for the post man to bring me the reed valves I need to repair it, I can't help but wonder if anybody has made their own reed valves. Either out of leather or Mylar? I hear old floppy disk material works too? I see sheets for Mylar on Amazon listed as Stencil Sheets. Some of the sheets list their thickness, many don't.

It would be an experiment, but maybe a fun one while I wait... and wait... for the real ones to arrive :)

Just curious if anybody else has dabbled with this.

Cheers!
 
Given the cost of "plastic" reed valves it is hardly worth the effort. It could be worth it for leather valves. My latest accordion also has leather valves that were cut in the factory where the instrument is made, not in a "reed valve factory" (as far as I know, I did not actually visit the factory in Voronesh). The leather has to be cut rather precisely to size in my instrument as there is no tolerance or the inner valves get stuck (really!).
 
I have a old accordion that I am learning to repair and made valves out of photographic negatives and they seem to work well
 
debra said:
Given the cost of plastic reed valves it is hardly worth the effort. It could be worth it for leather valves. My latest accordion also has leather valves that were cut in the factory where the instrument is made, not in a reed valve factory (as far as I know, I did not actually visit the factory in Voronesh). The leather has to be cut rather precisely to size in my instrument as there is no tolerance or the inner valves get stuck (really!).

Interesting insight. I hadnt really considered the tolerance requirements. I assumed that a good straight edge and X-Acto knife would get it done, but yeah, those inside valves could be tricky.


Cwejg said:
I have a old accordion that I am learning to repair and made valves out of photographic negatives and they seem to work well

That is a fun idea. Not sure I have any old negatives laying around but sweet idea anyway!
 
So I found a local shop that does custom car upholstery. Im wondering if I could hit them up for scraps to try making leather valves? Might be funny looking since I assume the leather they use is of different colors. I also dont know about thicknesses...
 
It's the thickness consistency that is more important than anything. different scraps may result in different thicknesses and that results in inconsistent reed performance.
 
Nate74 said:
Wow. If shipping doesnt kill it to Los Angeles, I may be doing some shopping :) Still want to do some experimenting though :)
They charge me GBP 4.00 to ship to Canada on most orders.
 
Thanks! I may order a full set of treble and bass just to have on hand. Seems pretty reasonable. $1.26USD = 1.00GBP... not bad at all.
 
When I was working on my Hohner Camillo, I found two of the valves rendered useless. I made two replacements. I cut them from this "copier transparencies". They work very well.
 

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squeezeboy said:
Not worth the trouble... when you can get lots of them for little money!
http://www.cgmmusical.co.uk/CGM_Musical_Services/Reed_Valves.html#13

I have an old accordion I am currently tinkering with in order to learn about repair and maybe one day I may even be able to use it! However can anyone advise me on different reed valve sizes etc. i.e will the pack listed above be suitable for all bass and treble? I need to replace pretty much all as they are all curled up!
 
squeezeboy said:
Not worth the trouble... when you can get lots of them for little money!
http://www.cgmmusical.co.uk/CGM_Musical_Services/Reed_Valves.html#13

I have an old accordion I am currently tinkering with in order to learn about repair and maybe one day I may even be able to use it! However can anyone advise me on different reed valve sizes etc. i.e will the pack listed above be suitable for all bass and treble? I need to replace pretty much all as they are all curled up![/quote]

You may need large valves for the large bass reeds. Check other products in CGMs catalog, they have plastic and leather valves for almost any size. E-mail them to ask if you are not sure. Charlie is very helpful.
 
That's great thanks :) I will send a message to Charlie
 
If you are friendly with your dentist!!!! He will use mylar strips to contour fillings in front teeth. As a retitred I know. They come in several thichnesses and widths and I have used it successfully to replace faulty valves in a chromatic harmonica having easy access to them. Al
 
GOM post_id=50850 time=1506633264 user_id=129 said:
If you are friendly with your dentist!!!! He will use mylar strips to contour fillings in front teeth. As a retitred I know. They come in several thichnesses and widths and I have used it successfully to replace faulty valves in a chromatic harmonica having easy access to them. Al
So you have a wonderful ability to work in inaccessible places using a mirror! Could be useful in accordion repair! :D
Tom
 
Accordion Reed Valves.

Coming from a post war era of make-do and mend I easily empathise with having a go and making my own. However it’s important to understand that this philosophy has its limits and when it comes to some matters ‘accordion’ I believe it has.
Plastic, like steel, is produced to have specific qualities depending on its intended purpose. Its springy-ness and ability to recover from being blown open, for instance, would be a desirable quality for an accordion valve but not necessarily be a quality required for a floppy disc maker or ordinary sheet of plastic for ordinary stationery purposes. I personally doubt if the ‘elastic limits’ of many ordinary everyday plastics would stand up to the task of opening and closing reliably over many years as purpose made valves do.
The task of valve renewal is time consuming and to replace a lot of valves, particularly the inside valves, with home made ones is not a risk I would take.
Leather valves are different being a natural material though, like plastic, I would expect that its qualities are an experts field.
Felts and leathers vary greatly in quality and those available in ordinary d-i-y stores can easily fall short of what is required for an accordion. Years ago I used chamois leather from such a source to line a complete set of palettes. The accordion was playable but not really air-tight. After a long process of elimination I discovered that the fault was the palettes and when I relined them proper selected chamois material the problem disappeared.
So many of the accordion repair tasks are labour intensive that, for me, the risk of using non-standard material is just too great.
 
Well I have a minute to reply on this one.
A few years back a customer came to me with a Hohner in need of a bass strap fitted. The customer was a "jack of all trades" but needed a proper size bass strap and have it fitted.
Well I fitted a Bass strap but noted the valves on the reed plates as they were very neat and flat. It seems that he was a camera buff and used camera film to fashion & cut for valves.
Well although I have parts, I still today have a couple of old rolls of camera film in the Fridge for "JUST IN CASE".
 
JimD,
Since a few years have passed since you observed the valves made from camera film in the accordion you were repairing it would be interesting to know how they are performing now. The odds must be there is plastic material out there that would do the job.
 
Well I made a call to a previous customer that I had to do a mercy mission for some three years ago.
He was and is a Irish box player and his Hohner needed service for his performance that evening.
The basic problem was some valves had shrunk and not closing.
At the time I had no plastic reed valves (ventilli) in stock to match.
I could have used leather replacements but the notes would not have the bite responce needed for a Diotonic box.
I cut some valves to size from camera film ( cellulose) and replaced them.
I called Seamus (JIM) last night and the valves are still holding and working.
:tup:
 
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