Hohner Atlantic iv - Internal photos

[artelagro]

Hi everyone,
I have just bought a cheap Atlantic iv and am about to dismantle/clean/rebuild it.
Before starting, I would like to properly identify it.
On Youtube I found this clip which is helpful but not in the depth that I am looking for :-

My box is different - I have a wrist coupler. There is a roller blind which I guess is a mute and the couplers seem to act on the top (chin end) instead of the middle as shown, there is also a plastic blade which could be part of a chin coupler.
On my box, the grille cover and treble coupler (switch) buttons are missing -
What I would like to know is what other parts are also missing?
Can anyone help please?
Garth

 

[Soulsaver]

Hi Garth
The Atlantic in the clip sounds lovely, thanks.
But Im not clear what you are asking here - the one in the video has a wrist coupler - which is usual on IV DeLux models.
The sordina (roller blind) was fitted to earlier models than the one in the clip and would have a different grill.

Grills are in demand (for converting vox models to acoustic without a large hole in the grill where the archaic electical switches have been removed) so unfortunately usually expensive. Im not sure how many grill designs featured a sordina, but certainly the early one:
http://www.accordions.co.uk/secpicsviewdocs.htm/HoAt4N.htm

Im not expert on Atlantics (on anything actually) but I have never seen one with chin switches... doesnt mean not possible though.

Is there a pic you intended to post that may give a clue to whats missing?

 

[JIM D.]

As Ed mentioned, you just might have an old electronic model with parts missing. The bad news is the parts you need are now obsolete parts from the maker and will take some re-scearch to find. To complicate the bad news is if a dealer or re-builder has the parts you need, he will be reluctant to part with them as they are more valuable to him in his future repairs or rebuild's.

 

[artelagro]

Hi Ed and JimD - looks like you were both spot on with your diagnosis. I never considered for a moment that it may be electronic. I had thought that the repairs to date had been carried out by an electrician in the 1960s or 70s due to the use of electricians screws and such like that were used.
I hope to take further photographs later today but in the meantime you can view the Ebay listing at
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390902997204?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
This is getting interesting.
Garth

 

[Soulsaver]

Wow,Garth! - bargain or what? The bad news is it looks like it has been scavenged for spares which means it prob wasn't good before the salvage. It looks earlier than the Vox models, possibly scavenged to convert one but hard to tell without seeing what the couplers looked like. But the bellows, keys, feet must be worth more than the final price; reeds would be a bonus - but I'd err on the side of pessimism -corrosion/rust etc - good reeds would mean this box was worth saving before someone 'pinched' the grill.
Have you got it yet?

 

[Glenn]

Normally, when an eBay seller takes photos of the accordion upside down as in this case, you are on a sticky wicket.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[artelagro]

I agree Glenn but wouldn’t Ebay be a very boring place if it wasn’t for the likes of me.
Trying to convince my other half that these are bargains not to be missed is always the hard part.
I swore that I would not touch another accordion until the ongoing projects were finished – then along came the Atlantic. In order to take the photographs to explain my problem, I had to dismantle this bit, followed by that bit etc., etc.
The following photos show what happened next.

 

[artelagro]

I am only allowed 5 photographs so here is the next batch:-

 

[artelagro]

The points I noted on the way down were :-
The grille is missing.
The 11 coupler switches are missing.
There is no way to join the four coupler slides to the operating levers at the end.
What I thought may have been a chin coupler was just a fake-up to manually bring in one set of reeds.
There is no rod to operate the sordina (roller blind)
Gasket compound has been used to seal the bellows/frame joint.
One reed was broken and one reed plate loose inside.

On the plus side
I was very impressed with the build quality.
The only tool needed to dismantle it was a small electrician’s screwdriver.
Most parts look as if they just need a good clean.
Definitely worth saving, even though I haven’t seen the reeds yet.

Now, do I progress this or finish some of the others first?

 

[Soulsaver]

If you are referring to the screws at the bottom of each of the keys, they aren't electrical... they're shaped like a 'T' at the back and tensioned by a captive spring. You push them in with a screw driver, (IIRC) make a 1/4 anticlock turn and the individual key pops off its mount. Great design, no key axle rod.

 

[Soulsaver]

Charlie Marshall has what may be the correct coupler switches on his webby. May be worth asking if hes got the rest of the mechanism. IIRC he had the grill, too, but its not in his pics now. ....

http://www.cgmmusical.co.uk/CGM_Musical_Services/Hohner_Parts.html

 

[artelagro]

Soulsaver, thanks for your replies.
I will remove one of the piano keys as you suggest - because I am fascinated with anything novel.
Then I think it will be reassembled until I clear the decks a bit. The word 'overload' comes to mind.
This was to be my winter project but I haven't finished last year's project yet or the 'problem' jobs from before that date.
My table (bench) is presently covered by the dismantled bass machine of a Swedish box, which I swear, is not going to beat me without a fight - After two months, I am starting to wear it down.

I buy all my valves, gaskets etc from Charlie Marshall (a great guy) and almost certainly he will be hearing from me soon.

On the Atlantic, the main part I don't understand is how the coupler sliders connect to the mechanism at the chin end. Other than that, I think I now have it sussed.
I will watch this space for the views of others. What a great forum - where would we be without the internet. Thanks all.
Garth

 

[Soulsaver]

I think its the same design (prob different size) as the Hohner Lucia coupler mech: the coupler switches activate 3 sliders below, theres a cranked (to allow ajustment) zinc plated connector with a hrozontal integral washer that just lassoos the vertical pins on the legs of the little concentric pivot stack .. where your improv chin switch attaches.
Its low def cos Ive cut it from a bigger pic.


Edited for accuracy.

 

[artelagro]

Thanks soulsaver, that looks simple and helps a lot. I will clean the relevant parts on mine and see if the same idea works. From the 'spare' parts on my box I had envisaged a 'bell-crank' lever assembly. Time will tell.
Garth

 

[Soulsaver]

It's unlikely to make a material difference but prob worth clarifying 2 points, Garth: '...same DESIGN' I should have said (and I've edited the post accordingly)- there will be a size difference in the width of the whole mechanism for sure; the Lucia was never 120 bass. And those cranked connectors (must) freely swivel at the connection with the sliders - prob stating the obvious but if you intend to fabricate stuff, best build the requirement in from the start.

 

[Hopper Ron]

Is there a way to adjust the treble register slides that do not open and close fully? The body is aluminum and there does not appear that the slides themselves can be accessed. Help, please!

 

[debra]

Is there a way to adjust the treble register slides that do not open and close fully? The body is aluminum and there does not appear that the slides themselves can be accessed. Help, please!

I believe the slides should be accessible from the inside. When you remove the reed blocks there should be screws that let you remove a panel to access the slides. Careful that you keep the slides in the right order! Most often when the slides are a bit stiff or don't open fully it's just a matter of dirt. So try cleaning (blowing out dust) before you have a go at disassembly.
You should also first take off the register mechanism by the keyboard so you can check whether the part that doesn't go smoothly is the part with the switches or is really the slides on the inside.