The screws that hold the feet to the body of my accordion tend to vibrate loose. What is recommended as a thread locker? These are small screws that go into wood rather than metal, so I don’t know if the loctite that I use on cars is the right product.
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thread locker
- Thread starter Wheezer
- Start date
Dingo40
Been here for ages!
I've never had this exact problem.
Is it possible to replace the wood screws with machine screws, in which case you could use loctite or nylon insert locking nuts!
There's also this:
Loctite Screw Thread Locker, .5 oz.
Fills worn screw holes. For use on wood, particle board, paneling, and drywall. Eliminates loose handles, knobs, hooks, and hinges. Removable with screwdriver. 0.5 fl. oz. tube.
This usually works well!
Some times (if space allows) it helps to beef up the anchor point by glueing an extra fillet of suitable wood behind it, in which case you can also use somewhat longer screws.
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Good advice. That Loctite product is a new one for me, I’ll have to lock for some to try. I wonder what the composition is. It says “gap filler”.
Depending on the wood and the reason for the loosening, in general (not specifically for accordions) I do one of several things:
- Use the toothpick/sliver of wood method. If important to keep a small screw centered in the orig hole I sometimes use two or three wood slivers so to not skew the screw to one side, I usually cut or split pointed wood slivers and hammer them into the hole with or without glue, then drill or use a small awl to make a starting hole if needed. I’ve repaired a lot of screws in door hinges and strike plates this way - these take a lot of abuse, especially in older houses where things may have been replaced several times.
- Sometimes simply put a bit of CA glue in the hole, let it set up, then try inserting the screw. The CA will harden the wood somewhat. Sometimes a bit of normal wood glue works, I always let it dry before reinserting the screw but maybe that’s not needed.
- On occasion, I’ve used something to harden the wood AND found replacement screws with a slightly larger diameter, coarser thread, and/or a bit of extra length (if the wood will allow). Sometimes the hardest thing is to find screws with suitable heads, e.g., with the same taper in some cases.
- In extreme cases we carefully drill out the hole (needs to be fairly precise), glue in a wooden plug, drill a pilot hole, and reinsert the original or new screw.
- Instead of normal wood screws, I often use sheet small metal screws if I have the right size. Small, tapered wood screws can be the worst.
- As mentioned, replace the wood screw with a machine screw, especially if the inside is accessible. Might be able to use a nut. There are also a variety of threaded inserts that can be used in some cases, but most I’ve used have been with fairly large screws. Some inserts that don’t need access to the inside are cylindrical with coarse outer threads to grip the wood (have to drill the right sized hole first) and fine inside threads for the machine screw.
If needing new screws and the local hardware store doesn’t carry them look for a fastener supply company that caters to industry (they are in or near most cities). These guys carry almost any kind of fastener made - the one in my area will even sell just a few fasteners at a time.
JKJ
Depending on the wood and the reason for the loosening, in general (not specifically for accordions) I do one of several things:
- Use the toothpick/sliver of wood method. If important to keep a small screw centered in the orig hole I sometimes use two or three wood slivers so to not skew the screw to one side, I usually cut or split pointed wood slivers and hammer them into the hole with or without glue, then drill or use a small awl to make a starting hole if needed. I’ve repaired a lot of screws in door hinges and strike plates this way - these take a lot of abuse, especially in older houses where things may have been replaced several times.
- Sometimes simply put a bit of CA glue in the hole, let it set up, then try inserting the screw. The CA will harden the wood somewhat. Sometimes a bit of normal wood glue works, I always let it dry before reinserting the screw but maybe that’s not needed.
- On occasion, I’ve used something to harden the wood AND found replacement screws with a slightly larger diameter, coarser thread, and/or a bit of extra length (if the wood will allow). Sometimes the hardest thing is to find screws with suitable heads, e.g., with the same taper in some cases.
- In extreme cases we carefully drill out the hole (needs to be fairly precise), glue in a wooden plug, drill a pilot hole, and reinsert the original or new screw.
- Instead of normal wood screws, I often use sheet small metal screws if I have the right size. Small, tapered wood screws can be the worst.
- As mentioned, replace the wood screw with a machine screw, especially if the inside is accessible. Might be able to use a nut. There are also a variety of threaded inserts that can be used in some cases, but most I’ve used have been with fairly large screws. Some inserts that don’t need access to the inside are cylindrical with coarse outer threads to grip the wood (have to drill the right sized hole first) and fine inside threads for the machine screw.
If needing new screws and the local hardware store doesn’t carry them look for a fastener supply company that caters to industry (they are in or near most cities). These guys carry almost any kind of fastener made - the one in my area will even sell just a few fasteners at a time.
JKJ
When I encounter this problem it's often an issue that the hole has become "worn out" by repeated unscrewing and re-screwing too many times over the years. I often insert an extra bit of wood (a chip from a toothpick) and sometimes also a drop of wood glue in the hole and after that the screws are secure again.
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