Just wanted to hear the experience of other members on making your own reed wax. I bought some rosin from a music shop, I think it was for violins and it was very dark. I also bought some bees wax and melted them together melting the rosin first as suggested due to the higher melting point. I didn’t bother with any oil. The result now it’s cold is a hard waxy mixture ready to use which I’m happy with. The mixture is however very dark and has a very smokey smell. Just wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience with this type of rosin? Thanks
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Making your own reed wax
- Thread starter Johnno
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Rosie C
Well-known member
I've not made any YET, but I do play viola and double bass - there are several grades of rosin with differing melting points. Particularly for double bass I use different rosins for summer and winter - if I take the winter rosin out in summer it melts!
Hi Rosie,
Thanks for replying. Is the summer and winter recognisable by colour. The one I bought was black. I didn’t realise there were different types of Rosin not sure which is the best for making accordion reed wax.
32251
Active member
That’s what I use. Just go to Amazon…buy a five pack of the cheapest violin rosin and some beeswax. Cut it 3 or 4 to one wax to resin and a 1/2nteaspoon of olive oil. I mix up small quantities. Cheap and works. Also at Amazon, get this single burner. It is really great as it allow for lower temps and switches on and off to keep the temp there. I tried others and they were not accurate at low temps. Procter silex is the brand.
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Rosie C
Well-known member
They don't call it winter and summer - that's just how I differentiate them. But generally lighter rosin is harder and darker rosin is softer. But bass rosin is often not described this way and I go by brand - "Pops" for winter and "Nyman" for summer. I'm no expert, particularly at viola!
kimric
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You really want to add 1-2 percent linseed oil, this really changes how it will handle and flow. A small amount of Castor oil helps with adhesion to the reed plates too. There are a lot of different types or "rosin" the violin rosin you buy may allready have a small amount of beeswax in it.
boxplayer4000
Prolific poster
I suggest a little search on this site; the subject has been well discussed before.
Beware with materials you don't know exactly their content; a re-waxing job is too big to get wrong.
Beware with materials you don't know exactly their content; a re-waxing job is too big to get wrong.
Alan Polivka
Active member
Oil is definitely recommended and is a standard ingredient in this material. I recommend more like a 2:1 mix of wax:rosin. This will make the stuff less likely to melt if the accordion is left in a hot car, and it slightly improves the conduction of sound energy from the reed plates to the reed block.
kimric
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If anyone is looking for Rosin in bulk ,I just ordered a 25 lb bag. After doing a bit of a dive it turns out the chemical construction is different from different types of pine, most are pretty similar but the stuff from Brazil is quite different so it may act different. There is quite a industry around pine rosin (it is used to make epoxy for one).
To add to confusion different types of bees have different types of wax composition, different melting points etc.
Reed wax is not just several things mixed together, there is a chemical reaction between the wax, rosin, and oil that yields a compound that is unlike the things used to make it.
Someone set up with a lab and a couple months of time could probably come up with a ideal solution.
I had a 1930's instrument from Wurlitzer that had stock wax that was as pliable as if it was new, and it would flow when heated like new wax, the odd thing that struck me was the smell, it smelled a bit like gear box oil when heated. This made me think that a sulfated castor oil, or a petroleum product with sulfur was added.
To add to confusion different types of bees have different types of wax composition, different melting points etc.
Reed wax is not just several things mixed together, there is a chemical reaction between the wax, rosin, and oil that yields a compound that is unlike the things used to make it.
Someone set up with a lab and a couple months of time could probably come up with a ideal solution.
I had a 1930's instrument from Wurlitzer that had stock wax that was as pliable as if it was new, and it would flow when heated like new wax, the odd thing that struck me was the smell, it smelled a bit like gear box oil when heated. This made me think that a sulfated castor oil, or a petroleum product with sulfur was added.
Alan Polivka
Active member
One of the old guys who mentored me on accordion tuning said that some folks he used to know in the NY/NJ area would use motor oil in their reed wax. Maybe that's what you incurred. (-:
kimric
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Could be ,would be nice to know the long term state of that wax.
Alan Polivka
Active member
Agreed. Unfortunately, my mentor who might have known is no longer with us.
Caps
Active member
I would not recommend olive oil as it may mold. Tradition, I believe is to use linseed oil. Also be careful not to burn the mix. A mini crockpot works well.
32251
Active member
Olive oil is just fine. There are recipes online that call for it as an ingredient. Look them up if you like. Bet there are plenty of
Italian accordions with olive oil used in the wax. I would not be surprised if castor oil was also viable. There is always olive oil in the kitchen. Easy.
If your Olive oil goes mouldy, it is contaminated.
Javthedog
Active member
The person who showed me how the reed waxing worked was/is horrified if you mention rosin.......as was the person (long gone) who showed him. Beeswax and beeswax only......but what do I know - just what I was told!
Alan Polivka
Active member
Rosin is essential for this purpose. Beeswax, oil and rosin is the standard combination that has been used for a century.
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Caps
Active member
I would think so. Don't know if it would actually get moldy or not - just seemed more likely than with Linseed oil either raw or boiled.
Alan Polivka
Active member
Linseed oil is highly flammable, so must be handled with care. My mentor said that they accordion repairmen in the NY/NJ area back in the golden age would use whatever type of oil was handy.
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