V
VintageIorio
Guest
Hello!
I've posted before about my eBay purchase. Hohner Tango II M. I've already gotten a lot of good advice and have read many topics on Accordion Revival.
The history is that when I got the accordion there were many silent reeds. So I took all the reed blocks out and "plinked" the reeds to free them up and then reinstalled the reed blocks. Now almost all the reeds are sounding. :b
When I had the reed blocks out to plink I found that the plastic reed valves were just plain falling off. Some of the reeds were silent because the plastic valve was actually stuck in the reed.
My plan is to remove the reeds from the blocks (carefully, one block at a time), clean the reeds in solvent, glue on the reed valves and rewax them into their respective reed blocks.
I am thinking that I can reuse most of the plastic valves as most of them are still flat and straight and replace missing valves or creased valves.
My question is: How do I know which reed valves are best for each reed? Or just use any plastic reed valve that fits?
The reed valves pretty much all look the same. Sort of. They don't seem to vary that much in thickness. Some are made with two pieces of plastic and some have three "flaps".
OK, here's another question from my inexperience and it's another guess: Will I be OK if I just match the reed valves for length (so the reed is covered) and not worry about which valve fell of of which reed? I think any reed valve would be better than none.
My goal is to have this lighter weight Hohner Tango II M pleasantly playable. I'm not looking for perfection. As it is now, with maybe 30 or 40 reed valves totally missing, it plays minimally well although some notes sound like poop.
Thanks for your help if you have the time.
--Loren
I've posted before about my eBay purchase. Hohner Tango II M. I've already gotten a lot of good advice and have read many topics on Accordion Revival.
The history is that when I got the accordion there were many silent reeds. So I took all the reed blocks out and "plinked" the reeds to free them up and then reinstalled the reed blocks. Now almost all the reeds are sounding. :b
When I had the reed blocks out to plink I found that the plastic reed valves were just plain falling off. Some of the reeds were silent because the plastic valve was actually stuck in the reed.
My plan is to remove the reeds from the blocks (carefully, one block at a time), clean the reeds in solvent, glue on the reed valves and rewax them into their respective reed blocks.
I am thinking that I can reuse most of the plastic valves as most of them are still flat and straight and replace missing valves or creased valves.
My question is: How do I know which reed valves are best for each reed? Or just use any plastic reed valve that fits?
The reed valves pretty much all look the same. Sort of. They don't seem to vary that much in thickness. Some are made with two pieces of plastic and some have three "flaps".
OK, here's another question from my inexperience and it's another guess: Will I be OK if I just match the reed valves for length (so the reed is covered) and not worry about which valve fell of of which reed? I think any reed valve would be better than none.
My goal is to have this lighter weight Hohner Tango II M pleasantly playable. I'm not looking for perfection. As it is now, with maybe 30 or 40 reed valves totally missing, it plays minimally well although some notes sound like poop.
Thanks for your help if you have the time.
--Loren