FR-7x Fuse
- Thread starter dagaanes
- Start date
Ventura
Been here for ages!
1: does it still power on from the cable and mains power supply ?
2: is the battery cover in place ? (hidden switch)
3: did you test the battery with a meter ?
usually, if there is a fault in the power system, the
(soft type) on switch will momentarily bring up activity
before shutting back down
no activity at all, no flash from the screen, is
more indicative of a break (open) connector or wiring
2: is the battery cover in place ? (hidden switch)
3: did you test the battery with a meter ?
usually, if there is a fault in the power system, the
(soft type) on switch will momentarily bring up activity
before shutting back down
no activity at all, no flash from the screen, is
more indicative of a break (open) connector or wiring
1: No
2: Yes
3: No. But it is brand new and fully charged.
There is no activity at all. No flash from the screen.
Last edited:
Ventura
Been here for ages!
i had never noticed a fuse, but i will try to find my schematics
and photo's for the 7 and look them over
it does sound like an open circuit on the supply side,
so the on/off switch has no chance to tell the
system to wake up, meaning the open is before the switch,
and is common to both the battery wiring and the cable wiring
the switch itself would be the last thing to suspect, as it only
actually "switches" a tiny bit of energy.. holding the circuits on
and sending the power where it is needed is done by assorted
solid-state sections (like one for the power amp, another for the screen)
so you would notice something "on" rather than a totally dead system
and photo's for the 7 and look them over
it does sound like an open circuit on the supply side,
so the on/off switch has no chance to tell the
system to wake up, meaning the open is before the switch,
and is common to both the battery wiring and the cable wiring
the switch itself would be the last thing to suspect, as it only
actually "switches" a tiny bit of energy.. holding the circuits on
and sending the power where it is needed is done by assorted
solid-state sections (like one for the power amp, another for the screen)
so you would notice something "on" rather than a totally dead system
OK. Thanks for the reply. there is a fuse F1 on the CIRCUIT DIAGRAM (DC DC CONVERTER) Page 74 in the service manual.
IT`s totally dead.
I am thinking of bringing the accordion to the dealer to see if he can sort this out for me.
IT`s totally dead.
I am thinking of bringing the accordion to the dealer to see if he can sort this out for me.
KeysFla
Well-known member
If you are able remove the board, this company may solder in a new fuse. Send them a picture of the fault and they give an estimate. A good company too for audio board and midi connector repair. Turn around is quick. Most likely Roland service may just replace the board.
.
www.logisticsct.com
.
Mail in service for motherboard and logic board repair
Mail in service for motherboard and logiic board repair. Microsoldering, component replacement, ic chip replacement, dc jack repair
www.logisticsct.com
Thanks a lot for you're reply.If you are able remove the board, this company may solder in a new fuse. Send them a picture of the fault and they give an estimate. A good company too for audio board and midi connector repair. Turn around is quick. Most likely Roland service may just replace the board.
.
Mail in service for motherboard and logic board repair
Mail in service for motherboard and logiic board repair. Microsoldering, component replacement, ic chip replacement, dc jack repair
The Roland workshop in Norway telling me there is no part available for repair and they are not given more support on the FR-7x accordions. So I suppose my FR-7x is just a plastic box with lot of electronics inside. So I have to look for a new accordion. But thanks all for you're contribution.
Can you get to the board and replace the fuse yourself?
The issue will be: what caused the fuse to blow? If you replace it and the fuse blows again, then you have bigger problems.
Ventura
Been here for ages!
it is way too soon to isolate on that specific fuse,
as it is doubtful the dc to dc convertor section is
needed for the soft switch to initially react..
all we can say for certain at this point is that
The Roland workshop in Norway is not actually able to
repair anything electronic.. all they are able to do is follow
procedures and swap boards as indicated by a set of
cascading instructions they follow from an intelligent system
any stone dead piece of electronics can be troubleshooted by
any competent electronics repair shop as long as you give them
the circuit diagram/schematic of the system
they need to physically follow the initial path of voltage through the
supply side circuit to the switch FIRST and determine if there is an open
in the circuit
then, if they did not find the fsult, it does get more complicated,
but a good electronics repair tech will still be able to continue to
follow the power circuits as they branch off to the dc:dc convertors
and subsystems
i am sorry that Roland repair in Norway is such a pisspoor excuse
as tech support, but the lack or Roland parts available has zero
bearing on an issue like this.. the discreet components at play are
most certainly available (wires, fuses, connectors, diodes, etc)
and i would not give up until someone with a brain has an actual
hands on look at it for you
as it is doubtful the dc to dc convertor section is
needed for the soft switch to initially react..
all we can say for certain at this point is that
The Roland workshop in Norway is not actually able to
repair anything electronic.. all they are able to do is follow
procedures and swap boards as indicated by a set of
cascading instructions they follow from an intelligent system
any stone dead piece of electronics can be troubleshooted by
any competent electronics repair shop as long as you give them
the circuit diagram/schematic of the system
they need to physically follow the initial path of voltage through the
supply side circuit to the switch FIRST and determine if there is an open
in the circuit
then, if they did not find the fsult, it does get more complicated,
but a good electronics repair tech will still be able to continue to
follow the power circuits as they branch off to the dc:dc convertors
and subsystems
i am sorry that Roland repair in Norway is such a pisspoor excuse
as tech support, but the lack or Roland parts available has zero
bearing on an issue like this.. the discreet components at play are
most certainly available (wires, fuses, connectors, diodes, etc)
and i would not give up until someone with a brain has an actual
hands on look at it for you
Cory was saying that when his 7X started acting up (he would hit a bass note that would get stuck until he hit that exact same note again), he had to get some obscure fuse replaced. It's one of the reason he has a flock of 7X's and one is always getting this fix done, he uses the next one until that one breaks and he sends that one out.
The 8X doesn't seem to have that issue (I'll be able to tell you once I place the same mileage Cory places on his 7X's... lol)... mine has not had that issue in the 9 years that I have owned it.
The 8X doesn't seem to have that issue (I'll be able to tell you once I place the same mileage Cory places on his 7X's... lol)... mine has not had that issue in the 9 years that I have owned it.
KeysFla
Well-known member
When a digital accordion, like a car, gets over 100,000 miles.
Either we refurbish it or get a new model…
Either we refurbish it or get a new model…
Is there a chance that you could tell me what size the fuse on the dc/dc converter is? if you manage to find out.
Valski
Well-known member
I'm definitely not as technical as others on this forum so this suggestion may be off the mark. I own the Fr8x and when there are rare power issues, I unplug the battery pack and reconnect, this quickly solves the power issue for me. I understand that the FR7X uses a different power system but sometimes the simple fixes are the correct ones.
Many years ago I owned a car that had experienced a loss of coolant and I dutifully replaced the thermostat, the water pump, the rubber coolant hoses and even the radiator core. The problem persisted and eventually I replaced the radiator cap and like magic the coolant loss stopped. Just shows that we don't need to over think these glitches.
Many years ago I owned a car that had experienced a loss of coolant and I dutifully replaced the thermostat, the water pump, the rubber coolant hoses and even the radiator core. The problem persisted and eventually I replaced the radiator cap and like magic the coolant loss stopped. Just shows that we don't need to over think these glitches.