A little late to the game, but.....
If one button fell off, you can reasonably expect another will follow suit, eventually.
Gorilla glue is a bad choice as it foams when exposed to air and can swell enough to glue the button to the hole or seep down into the interior.
Second, if the post is wood and the button is plastic, there will always be a lack of adhesion between the two; plastic glues melt the plastic providing a "weld" between the two plastic pieces, wood glues penetrate the cells of the wood for the bond. If the gap is small (tight fit) superglue would be a good choice (caveat: it sets QUICKLY and the button would beed to be pushed onto the post rapidly. A goof-up could result in a "proud" button. Backing up the lever mechanism would be highly recommended (via access panel removal as mentioned by Ventura). Scoring the inside of the button would help as well. In order to confirm button height alignment, dry fit the button to confirm it needs to be completely inserted over the post, or only partially. Use any glue sparingly to prevent an "air lock" bubble from forming and preventing the button from fully engaging the post.
Regarding CBA vs Diatonic (DBA); I came across this thread searching for CBA to DBA player advise. I have a Dino Baffetti TexMex on order (due in late march 2022) in GCF. My research suggests that GCF is best when playing with string instruments and ADF better with horns. While CBA's have all the notes any DBA will have, there are differences that are difficult or impossible to replicate. For example, on a diatonic, a player can engage a chord on the draw and with a rapid bellows reversal, engage a different complimentary chord on the press. This cannot be duplicated on a CBA as the player must move the hand to the new chord, losing time in the process.
Many Mexican players will play only on the draw, rapidly closing the bellows to regain bellows travel. This also accounts for the removal of the bass reeds. Yes, they are lighter in this condition, but the bass side buttons can now be used as "bellows vents" to rapidly vent the interior air. My Baffetti has been ordered with a double size vent hole/pallet for facilitate rapid closure, as I have ordered it with bass side reeds but still want to be able to close the bellows quickly. The lack of bass reeds is made up by the accompaning Bajo (in Mex style musics), and eliminates the accordion bass notes from clashing with the Bajo bass line. DBA music is often written to accommodate the particular layout and peculiarities of DBA's.
I, too, have recently suffered eye issues (detached retina, with all the complications) that left me blind in one eye (the main reason I haven't been posting here for some time). In fact, this loss of vision was the main reason I took up music, in general, and the accordion specifically. There are plenty of blind musicians out there, and I figured I'd get a head start on my learning, before the other eye lets me down. To that end, I recommend that you resist looking at the buttons during your formative stages and develop your muscle memory, which includes jumps, chords, inversions, etc. It will pay dividends in the long run (not to mention neck aches from looking down when playing).
Press on,
Waldo
If one button fell off, you can reasonably expect another will follow suit, eventually.
Gorilla glue is a bad choice as it foams when exposed to air and can swell enough to glue the button to the hole or seep down into the interior.
Second, if the post is wood and the button is plastic, there will always be a lack of adhesion between the two; plastic glues melt the plastic providing a "weld" between the two plastic pieces, wood glues penetrate the cells of the wood for the bond. If the gap is small (tight fit) superglue would be a good choice (caveat: it sets QUICKLY and the button would beed to be pushed onto the post rapidly. A goof-up could result in a "proud" button. Backing up the lever mechanism would be highly recommended (via access panel removal as mentioned by Ventura). Scoring the inside of the button would help as well. In order to confirm button height alignment, dry fit the button to confirm it needs to be completely inserted over the post, or only partially. Use any glue sparingly to prevent an "air lock" bubble from forming and preventing the button from fully engaging the post.
Regarding CBA vs Diatonic (DBA); I came across this thread searching for CBA to DBA player advise. I have a Dino Baffetti TexMex on order (due in late march 2022) in GCF. My research suggests that GCF is best when playing with string instruments and ADF better with horns. While CBA's have all the notes any DBA will have, there are differences that are difficult or impossible to replicate. For example, on a diatonic, a player can engage a chord on the draw and with a rapid bellows reversal, engage a different complimentary chord on the press. This cannot be duplicated on a CBA as the player must move the hand to the new chord, losing time in the process.
Many Mexican players will play only on the draw, rapidly closing the bellows to regain bellows travel. This also accounts for the removal of the bass reeds. Yes, they are lighter in this condition, but the bass side buttons can now be used as "bellows vents" to rapidly vent the interior air. My Baffetti has been ordered with a double size vent hole/pallet for facilitate rapid closure, as I have ordered it with bass side reeds but still want to be able to close the bellows quickly. The lack of bass reeds is made up by the accompaning Bajo (in Mex style musics), and eliminates the accordion bass notes from clashing with the Bajo bass line. DBA music is often written to accommodate the particular layout and peculiarities of DBA's.
I, too, have recently suffered eye issues (detached retina, with all the complications) that left me blind in one eye (the main reason I haven't been posting here for some time). In fact, this loss of vision was the main reason I took up music, in general, and the accordion specifically. There are plenty of blind musicians out there, and I figured I'd get a head start on my learning, before the other eye lets me down. To that end, I recommend that you resist looking at the buttons during your formative stages and develop your muscle memory, which includes jumps, chords, inversions, etc. It will pay dividends in the long run (not to mention neck aches from looking down when playing).
Press on,
Waldo
