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Brand new accordionist want to be

Dingo40

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Well, at least you know that it was originally glued, so gluing is a good way to go.πŸ™‚
The question now is, which glue?πŸ€”
I'm sure that several members (Art already has πŸ‘) in addition to Jim D and Paul Debra will both have suggestions!πŸ™‚
 
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TomBR

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Superglue is magical if you have really tight fitting fairly non-porous surfaces to be glued. It looks like there's glue residue on both button and lever. If you can feel the button fitting exactly back into the place it was before then I'd try a tiny spot of superglue on the lever and pop the button into place. If it doesn't feel secure within a couple of minutes it hasn't worked and you clean off and try something else.
I assume Elmers is a PVA or something like that? If you're using that sort of glue you would want to clean off both surfaces and you want to try to avoid flakes of old glue dropping inside the keyboard box. It's not crucial, just nice to avoid if possible. If you can have a gentle vacuum drawing debris away while you're working that's good. You might need to use a bit of soft wire (a paper clip would do) to make a hook so that the lever doesn't disappear downwards when you try to work on it.
 

dunlustin

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Just a thought while choosing the glue:
How about very thin paper or plastic tape (as used by plumbers) to make a friction fit?
It may not work but it is reversible
 

craigd

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I think the shop you bought it from should cover the cost of having it professionally repaired. Sure just a button to glue on, but like you said, you bought it to play it not fix it. Also, gluing a button onto the post which is not fixed in place and firstly needs to be cleaned off and can be damaged etc, isn't the simplest of tasks. You probably can do it, but what a hassle. They should want to make it right.
 

ArtMustel

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I agree with craigd, the shop should take care of it but as the OP said, shop is in a different State, and their only advice was to superglue it back. They should even cover postage both ways, but I doubt they will.
 

Ventura

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they call it "wood glue" for a reason, and that is what you should use

similar to elmers school, or white glue, but different for the purpose

Wood glue re-activates the cellulose fiber in the wood pieces which then
creates links which kind of shake hands then get solid together

both surfaces must be cleaned of old glue and need to mate fully

stillness and pressure while the glue "sets" is preferred

does the opposite side of the keys have a cover that removes easily ?

actually i hope that is the only thing that comes off... like i had warned,
shipping instruments across the Mississipi is traditionally high risk
and to be avoided if possible

good luck and i hope you get a lot of
use and enjoyment out of it
 

ArtMustel

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Elmer's school glue is excellent for plastic-wood, unless you need to waterproof the joint. Wood glue may be stronger but for this application, extra-strenght is not needed. You can use it of course but in this case it is overkill.
 

Dingo40

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"... pressure while the glue "sets" is preferred..."
Just out of interest, how would you apply pressure to this joint while the glue sets ?πŸ€”
 

NigelB

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Shame to have a problem so soon but it’s almost a right of passage as an accordionist to have to fix something like this.
 

Ventura

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"... pressure while the glue "sets" is preferred..."
Just out of interest, how would you apply pressure to this joint while the glue sets ?πŸ€”
that was why i asked if there was a removable panel opposite the keys
(the side that your chest presses)
sometimes they have a screwed on section that might give access
 

Ventura

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Elmer's school glue is excellent for plastic-wood, unless you need to waterproof the joint. Wood glue may be stronger but for this application, extra-strenght is not needed. You can use it of course but in this case it is overkill.
elmers school formula is specifically made to dissolve more easily and release
with moisture, as children often make mistakes and glue things to other things they shouldn't...

so i agree it can make a good solid joint in a pinch, but you never
know when something will get spilled or sweaty in future

and lastly, if she will be going out to buy the glue, might
as well get the stronger type... it comes in the same small bottle
and looks a bit yellowish by comparison
 
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Dingo40

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Could "Gorilla Cleargrip" be the one, as it grips "instantly" and appears not to require clamping?πŸ€”
See video here:
As this is a "generic", not an accordion specific, job, you could approach almost any conveniently located musical instrument repair-person in your area to give you a hand with it ( if unsure of yourself). πŸ™‚
They may even have their own ideas regarding the adhesive to useπŸ™‚
 
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Thanks for all the advice, everyone. I am grateful to have found this forum. I’ve had an unexpected eye problem that has usurped my accordion button problem for a while. Hopefully I can get my eye taken care of quickly and get back to starting my accordion adventure.
 
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Hello flying bunny, just wanted to ask about your eye, are you better now?
Thanks ArtMustel! That was very kind of you to check on me. I still have some problem with a little blurriness in the middle of my vision in one eye, but my brain seems to be getting better everyday with just ignoring it. Originally we thought the retina was detaching but turns out it is doing alright, so I am blessed. Still can see and I'm getting back to practicing my accordion. I have really enjoyed learning so much on this forum. Thanks again for checking in :)
 
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How's the detached accordion button?πŸ€”
Still β€œdetachedβ€œ.... I was going to take it in to an accordion shop downtown last week but I put it off due to the eye issue. Since Iβ€˜m new at this I have been focusing on the middle row to begin with. That allows me to avoid the missing button on the inner row, too. I’ll probably be up for a drive to the accordion shop sometime soon. 😊
 

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