Sticky keys--1930's Hohner with single spindle

[nbrunner]

I am brand new to the accordion--just picked up a 1930's Hohner "Carmen". I am cleaning it up a bit, and giving it enough of a tune-up to be enjoyable to play. Biggest issue is that I have a couple sticky keys. My accordion has a single brass spindle rod, which is only sticks out on the right side.

I have searched here and at Accordionrevival, and have seen some suggestions, but nothing that seems like an exact solution--my spindle does not slide out easily.

Are there any tricks to getting the spindle out? (I have seen a couple references to running electric current through it, but that seems pretty drastic)
Are there any other tricks to try to get the keys unstuck before moving on to more drastic attempts at removing the spindle?

 

[JIM D.]

I always use vice grip pliers to grab the spindle and with a twisting motion, back it out enough to be grabbed by a drill chuck and then spin it out. When replacing the spindle clean it with 000 steel wool, lube it with a lube such as WD-40 and spin it back in. AND NEVER HAMMER IT BACK IN !!! It's also unique that your Hohner has survived for 80+ years with only a sticking key problem. Good luck on your repair. :tup:

P.S. Where ever did you see a reference of running an electric current thru the spindle???

 

[smdc66]

S. Where ever did you see a reference of running an electric current thru the spindle???

i remember reading this too - either on a post here (from a repairer i think) or accordion revival

 

[nagant27]

I actually read about this in Reuther's repair book, and have done it. Several years ago I had an older LaTosca that I was cleaning up, and it had a couple sticky keys as well. It had one spindle also I believe, and I could not remove it. It was frustrating. I tried everything and was afraid if I was too forceful I could break the wood. I followed the instructions in the book and ran an electric current through the rod and it worked. I removed it, cleaned it up really good with steel wool and fixed the keys problems and reassembled it. I don't really play that accordion much anymore but it still functions. Its got a lot "bling" with rhinestones and that classic 30's look which is why I got it in the first place, but the sound is not what I really enjoy playing though. It has become more of a "for show" accordion for me now, but is fully functional.
If you want to try it I could probably take a picture of the pertinent pages and post here for on exactly how to do it, and what I did, but its not very difficult.

 

[JIM D.]

Yes, since you remind me there was a mention of just such a subject in the old Reuther's repair book. I bought one some 40 years back and used it for a primer in my amateur attempt's at accordion repair. It was a fine primer for the time.

 

[Soulsaver]

I'd like to see it - could come a shock to us... :lol:

 

[nagant27]

This is probably a stupid question but I took pictures of the 2 pages from the book and tried to upload them but they were too large. Anyone know how I can make them smaller?

 

[Soulsaver]

You can use photo editing software if you've got it, usually edit/size and resize the pics dimensions, or pixels or mb (to below 1mb). Or sometimes in the camera settings...

 

[Glenn]

If you use a smart phone email the picture to yourself.
The phone will give options to reduce the size.

 

[nbrunner]

I'd be interested to see the details on how much current, how long, etc. I am also at the point where I feel like I am going to snap off the end of the rod. In my case, I would have to drill in somewhere to find the other end of the rod, but that seems like it might be better than snapping off the rod, or tearing up a couple of the keys to get underneath.

 

[ChrisH]

I bought a pdf download of the Reuther book from
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/7727399-accordion-repair-manual-pdf

The technique described is to pass 40-50 amps through the axle for 5-6 seconds. This expands the axle (he warns that you may hear cracking noises from the woodwork!). When the axle cools down it contracts an can be extracted from the enlarged holes.

(As an electrical engineer I feel I should add a health and safety warning - this may only require low voltage, but you could do a lot of damage if you get it wrong)

Chris

 

[nagant27]

This is the charger I used. I managed to resize this picture. I am still trying to figure the pages. Also there was definitely some sounds when I did it, as well as a smell. If all else fails I think it is a good technique, I know if I continued I would have broken either the wood or the spindle itself. Anyway I will keep trying on these pages.

 

[nagant27]

here the 2 relevant pages are. I learned a lot about my phone in the process.

 

[nagant27]

This book is somewhat older but I think was very helpful. The accordion repair site accordion revival is much newer and more up to date I think, but a weird technique like this is not in there. Like someone else warned- be careful.

 

[kimric]

I just did this to a 24 bass hohner. A car battery is what works well. Your wires must be several gauges bigger than your rod or you will set the wires glowing.
Ruther would have you drill into the opposite end of the keyboard to do the job, but I found that pushing a flat piece of copper or brass between the last keys on the opposite the exposed rod worked just fine on many instruments, you just need to make good contact with the rod.
You only need to touch the wires to the rod (and plate) a couple of seconds at a time, you can char the wood around the rod if you get carried away. You need to pull it when it is still hot or the old gummy stuff on it will just grab again.
Check each key to see if it moves freely on the cleaned rod before reassembly. Clean the hole of the key out with the rod and a drop or two of kerosene if it binds. Keep wiping the dirt off the rod as you do this till it runs easily.

 

[nagant27]

Cool. I guess I'm not the only one who has tried this. Both ends of my spindle were exposed from both sides, but I was wondering if you could fit a piece a metal in between the keys so you wouldn't have to damage the housing. You did exactly that!

 

[kimric]

A fully charged "gel cell" 7ah or bigger should do it. The only time this did not work was on a instrument with bad corrosion on a instrument where the rod passed directly through aluminium key arms. The bi metal corrosion (long time in damp garage) was more than heat could free.