• If you haven't done so already, please add a location to your profile. This helps when people are trying to assist you, suggest resources, etc. Thanks (Click the "X" to the top right of this message to disable it)

My first project: Hohner Verdi II

I have also graphite and micronised Teflon powder,
I admire your determination and initiative: well done!👏
As far as graphite goes, I tried this on some door locks many years ago and found it most unsatisfactory as it is extremely messy and, in my personal opinion, could act to physically clog up the reeds and valves in an accordion.
I wouldn't use it.
In my opinion, PFTE is much cleaner (and works well in locks) although I don't know how it may affect the leather of the valves.🤔
 
Last edited:
Well, I just arrived from my trip and was eager to advance on my project!

Before leaving, I ordered a replacement bass strap and wheel. So, while it arrives, I have finally removed the old one. I have tried to cut the screw, but there was not good angle to use my Dremmel so I have drilled the rivets, got the old strap off, bent the old metal parts and, finally, removed the wheel mechanism:

IMG_20250318_155937.jpg

IMG_20250318_161336.jpg

IMG_20250318_161604.jpg

IMG_20250318_162149.jpg

IMG_20250318_162323.jpg

IMG_20250318_163131.jpg

Then I have glued the loose wood piece on the treble side:

IMG_20250318_191026.jpg

Next step was to reassemble the bass mechanism. It was now lots better than when I got it, as back then the buttons were stuck as soon as you pressed them. But it was not yet as it should, with some grinding noises.

I had ordered also some dry lube (WD40 Specialist PTFE) and it has arrived today... So I have checked it on the bass mechanism. First on the two rows still attached, which were already lots better than the four I had worked on. There is only one word to describe it. MAGIC!!!. The buttons now moved freely and easily. So I have lubed the bass register mechanism, which was close to impossible to move. Again, just incredible. When it dries, it is unnoticeable to the view, not oily in any way, but incredibly effective!

IMG_20250318_193945.jpg

So I have placed the 4-lines button assembly on the accordion and have used the dry lube on it. Wow, now it works close to what I expect on a new instrument!. I have a couple videos of the before and after, and just the change in mechanism noise is impressive.

So I have put back the bass registers. They need work, but I want to check the current condition of the instrument.

IMG_20250318_194008.jpg

Next step is to lube the treble register mechanism (which is also hard to move), assemble the treble side, put back the bellow pins (at least some) and hear for the first time what I have!

That will be tomorrow...
 
Humbling down

Yes, that title says it all.

Last week, just returned from my trip to Switzerland, I got into what I thought would be the final steps on my work on the Verdi II. And, well, looking it in perspective, I was not wrong. I took the reed blocks and, what at first sight (check what I wrote on the first message on this thread) seemed to me as good looking reeds, were really rusty ones. Lots of them. I save you the pain of listening how terrible the sound of this accordion is now.

Here you have a sample of one of the worse looking reeds. And the ones on the inner side are usually worst that the external ones:

IMG_20250325_224806.jpg

I am ashamed not having seen that before. I was so excited on my first accordion opening that my untrained eyes seemed to see what I wanted to see when I set them apart and centered on other mechanical problems. Which, looked now, were all related to humidity...

So I checked a large number of online sources for information. Of course, this forum also. And, day by day, the reality settled in. I got a Faber Castell fiberglass scrapper and tried it on a bad reed. Yes, it took the frequency closer to the nominal one. But it would be at least very hard to get all the reeds to frequency, if possible. Some online videos show an incredible after and before of oxidized reeds. But none show the magic way to do that...

So today I have decided to assemble everything back and store the Verdi II as a future used reed receiver or a parts donor for other one.

It is a very sad ending but, for sure, I have learnt a lot on how accordions work, their construction, basic mechanisms and such. Now I can open an accordion without hesitation. And that has been thanks to this poor Verdi II. It will always be my first attempt to fix an accordion 🪗😪
 
Last edited:
"seemed to see what I wanted to see"

even if that was the only lesson you learned, it was
worth it

though this blindness is not exclusive to the world of Accordion, it is
neverthless an epidemic problem.. more people have wasted tens of thousands
of dollars and euro's on reeds especially and models and brands because
they decieve themselves.. and so thoroughly that they then tell stories
out loud and in postings that perpetuate the myths they created

i applaud your honesty with yourself
 
Humbling down

Yes, that title says it all.

Last week, just returned from my trip to Switzerland, I got into what I thought would be the final steps on my work on the Verdi II. And, well, looking it in perspective, I was not wrong. I took the reed blocks and, what at first sight (check what I wrote on the first message on this thread) seemed to me as good looking reeds, were really rusty ones. Lots of them. I save you the pain of listening how terrible the sound of this accordion is now.

Here you have a sample of one of the worse looking reeds. And the ones on the inner side are usually worst that the external ones:

IMG_20250325_224806.jpg

I am ashamed not having seen that before. I was so excited on my first accordion opening that my untrained eyes seemed to see what I wanted to see when I set them apart and centered on other mechanical problems. Which, looked now, were all related to humidity...

So I checked a large number of online sources for information. Of course, this forum also. And, day by day, the reality settled in. I got a Faber Castell fiberglass scrapper and tried it on a bad reed. Yes, it took the frequency closer to the nominal one. But it would be at least very hard to get all the reeds to frequency, if possible. Some online videos show an incredible after and before of oxidized reeds. But none show the magic way to do that...

So today I have decided to assemble everything back and store the Verdi II as a future used reed receiver or a parts donor for other one.

It is a very sad ending but, for sure, I have learnt a lot on how accordions work, their construction, basic mechanisms and such. Now I can open an accordion without hesitation. And that has been thanks to this poor Verdi II. It will always be my first attempt to fix an accordion 🪗😪
it's a shame but good job nevertheless!
it is very similar to my own experience of trying my hand for the first time at a restoration
I worked very hard at it, replaced a lot of stuff, but in the end there is so much you miss if you're still inexperienced
but the whole ordeal gave me enough confidence from then on to open up a box and install my own mic systems
 
Back
Top