Building a on off switch for third M register

[wout]

So i tried soldering my lever, didnt work out to well sincebit doesnt attach to the aluminum. After trying and destroying 3 more basspistons i came up with this simple but it works. Its a basspiston holding the lever with a metal wire through of the pinholes and one of the holes in the registerbar. It holds well and is sturdy so its a more permanent solution then thebtape i used.

 

[Sebastian Bravo]

Hi Wout!

This is a Hohner Morino V BS, i added the third M switch just like you!

You inspired me to do this modification, thanks for your imagination and search of improve to the instruments

(I used an old Hohner Reed to keep it in position, with a little solder at the tip)



Hope you like it!

 

[debra]

...
This is a Hohner Morino V BS, i added the third M switch just like you!
...

I like this design better because the movement is all straight (not hinged anywhere). I think this is less likely to fail over time.

 

[Sebastian Bravo]

I like this design better because the movement is all straight (not hinged anywhere). I think this is less likely to fail over time.

Thanks Paul, that was the point. And i love it because it makes that *click* sound. My mother said it feels like an original part

Now it only have problems with the registers board (the one with the dots) that have fallen appart. Any suggestions on how to glue it back to the grill? It’s owner tried with super glue but didn’t work. It’s aluminun with aluminum...

 

[Morne]

Unfortunately this kind of modification isn't possible on the old Morino M series. The older German style mechanism that activates M- and M+ necessarily engages both.

 

[debra]

...
Now it only have problems with the registers board (the one with the dots) that have fallen appart. Any suggestions on how to glue it back to the grill? It’s owner tried with super glue but didn’t work. It’s aluminun with aluminum...

I would suggest to try it with what we call celluloid glue, which is celluloid dissolved in (a bit of) acetone, so it becomes a kind of paste. (This is the stuff you would use to repair cracked or missing bits of celluloid, or to glue a keytop to the wooden key base.) First clean the metal parts with acetone without touching anything that is black (because it may be celluloid and will dissolve). Then tape the piece in place with tape on the outside. Then go around the seam on the inside (so you do not touch the visible side) with bits of this paste on a wooden toothpick.

This celluloid glue sticks to the aluminum much better than superglue.