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Are these bass valves any good?,

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James

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I opened up my bass side and found the valves in this state. They do not seem to seat closed as I would imagine, having not seen what valves should be like in a new accordion. The ones in picture-1 seem somewhat ok to me but I am not that sure with the ones in picture-2.

My questions:

1) Are they at the stage where I need to replace them? Or,
2) Is it necessary to install valves boosters to correct them?

This is a Hohner Atlantic III. It has always been kept properly standing vertical on its feet.

Thank you!



 

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This looks within spec.

I wouldn't touch them (if the instrument plays normally)
 
I agree with jozz that this is close enough, certainly considering the age of the instrument.
Storing this type of instrument on its feet is just fine. If it were a "de luxe" version with "Winkelbaß" you would need to store it in the playing position but not with this version.
Such large valves do need booster springs, and that is what the plastic strips are for. As you can tell these plastic boosters do not keep the valves closed very well after decades of use, which is why metal boosters are generally considered to be better. But the valves you have will still close immediately as soon as air starts flowing and they will be closed even before you get any sound so there will be no ill effect.
Replacing the valves would be a major undertaking because you should also do the valves on the inside. I wouldn't bother. These are still fine.
 
Check each valve state. Sometimes they look good, but the leather can harden with time, so, test each valve's flexibility. If any valve feels stiff, replace it. (I had to replace 60 valves on a Hohner Lucia IVP two days ago because of that problem)
 
Sebastian Bravo post_id=65145 time=1545326223 user_id=2512 said:
Check each valve state. Sometimes they look good, but the leather can harden with time, so, test each valves flexibility. If any valve feels stiff, replace it. (I had to replace 60 valves on a Hohner Lucia IVP two days ago because of that problem)

Add to that: the valves on the inside are better shielded from the environment so often an inside valve can still be used while the outside valve needs to be replaced. Lucky for us repairers because replacing the valve on the inside of the reed block is much more work than replacing the one on the outside...
 
I can't add anything to the excellent replies so far, except that, as a general rule with accordions, if it plays / sounds ok, then it probably is. You'll know you need to check the valves if the tuning goes off and or you get valve flutter (you'll know it when you hear it). You'll only strip and rebuild a reed block once because 'it looks like perhaps it might need it.' After which you would only consider it in extremis, given how long it takes (though you would have an insight into why it costs so much).
 
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