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Accordion Reed

  • Thread starter Thread starter maskedwarrior
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maskedwarrior

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Hi well I've just bought an accordion off ebay for a stage show which is actually perfect for the task at hand... it's a bit rough and ready, but it's in tune, is nice and loud and looks the part.

In most ways its perfect, accept... it's turned up with a reed missing!

It's a Weltmeister 48 bass, made in the 60s I think.

I would like to just stick a new one in.... however is this easier said than done? There must be a tonne of old accordion parts out there... surely...???

Can anyone help me out?

Thanks,
Tony
 
If thats all thats wrong with it, it would not cost much for a tuner to put in another reed. It could also be checked over at the same time.
 
Oh just an update, the reed plate had become dislodged some time ago I'm guessing and had become wedged in between the folds of the bellows.

After examining the bellows it was rather surprise to come back to the case a little while later and find the missing reed sat in the middle of the box, waiting for me.

Rather an odd experience.

Now I will just wax it back into place! Hooray.
 
Hi Tony.
Glad you found an easy solution.
Can I suggest that you push a screwdriver (or similar) into the some of the other waxed areas to check if the wax has hardened there.
I wonder why only one reed shows a (fixing) fault.
Garth
 
No please don't push a screwdriver in to the wax, you will just risk dislodging more reeds. If one reed has fallen out already that tells you that the wax is past it's best, no need for further tests.
 
Funny, the communist-era Weltmeister CBA I bought recently had one of its bass-side reedplates detached too! But the wax seems fine, so it was an easy fix re-waxing that plate only.
 
I bought a beautiful P. Soprani (described "perfect, mint")once and whilst the wax was fine several big bass reeds had fallen out, must have been years earlier because a few reed plates had come adrift, one reed plate had broken (!), damaged the shape of the bellows fold and was corroded. It was 60's accordion in otherwise 'as new' condition. The seller refused to pay £80 for the repair & in a fit of pique I returned it charging him for return courier to Edinburgh. I regretted it ever since as it was a bargain. It was a Super Paolo box with machine made reeds and no casotto (& no model badge). I've seen these around a few times, usually claiming to Super Paolos.
 
Thanks for your feedback.

Squeezeboy, perhaps a tendency of these instruments then?

Mine almost looks like an old repair that someone may have bodged back into place, as there is really no sign of wax deterioration even to the reed plates either side. The general quality of the wax seems slightly on the brittle side, as you might expect from an old instrument, but it seems firm and solid, no flaking. I had made the resolution that if I kept the instrument for any length of time I would try to re-wax it and re-valve it myself, as a home project, for longevity and resale value, and to learn a new skill! I could even get it tuned. However for the moment my instinct is... If I'm respectful with it it should tide me over for the show. And if it gets rained on it'll be no great crime against accordions in its current state... plus it looks quite scruffy which is right. I also have some Italian wax I just bought from CGM and some leather valves, so I can make running repairs if and when.
Thanks for your replies.

I am just about to post a new topic inquiring about traditional Wiltshire accordion tunes. If you know of any I would really love to hear. Thanks so much,
Tony
 
I have found that the wax used during the later DDR era has a tendency to become hard and fail.
You can do a quick fix if most of the reeds are still in place by doing a "Top Wax". Scrape the wax off of the wood and the reed along the top of the reed block so it is clean (this is very important) and lay a new bead of wax along where you have cleaned. Now do the same along the bottom, and scrape out the wax all the way down to the wood for the first 1/8th inch between each reed also. Now run a bead of wax here also.
I recommend scraping all the way around any reeds that have dropped out and scrape the plate edges also, as you wont get an air seal otherwise.

This works well, but will not last as long as a proper wax job. You can go back later and finish the job without disturbing the reeds if you wish.
I found a set of small flat tip screwdrivers works well for removing the wax without gouging the wood.
 
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