Renovating bellows corners

[Beemer]

I have just bought a 1957 Hohner Student VM. It has been professionally renovated including bellows retaping. The bellows metal corners were not replaced are and I'm wondering whether I could renovate them. They appear to be zinc plated steel and some of the plating has worn through and rust spots are evident. I know that paint will not permanently stick to zinc plating so I'm unsure how to proceed. I've seen videos of corners being applied and its not a job I'm keen to tackle. I'm thinking of applying rust convertor (phosphoric acid) then some type of primer before hand painting with ? paint.

 

[Ffingers]

I have just bought a 1957 Hohner Student VM. It has been professionally renovated including bellows retaping. The bellows metal corners were not replaced are and I'm wondering whether I could renovate them. They appear to be zinc plated steel and some of the plating has worn through and rust spots are evident. I know that paint will not permanently stick to zinc plating so I'm unsure how to proceed. I've seen videos of corners being applied and its not a job I'm keen to tackle. I'm thinking of applying rust convertor (phosphoric acid) then some type of primer before hand painting with ? paint.

A zinc dense paint (Galvafroid ? ) might be a solution, but it does dry to a dull grey, not shiny.
Prep by rubbing the rusted parts with a vinegar dampened cloth, allow the vinegar to evaporate, then apply the zinc paint.
It is not pretty, but effective.

 

[Beemer]

Thanks for that idea. Seems to be available only in larger volume than I need. I have found this which may be suitable as long as it is overcoated.

https://electrolube.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/SCP_lhptji.pdf

 

[Beemer]

On further inspection the corners have not rusted. Where the zinc plating has worn the base metal has a brown copper like coating which has Verdigris deposit.

 

[Dingo40]

Probably, all you need is a good buffing (keep it clear of the cardboard) and you're good to go!
Paper towelling used as a rubbing pad works well (don't abrade the bellows or tape !)
Regular use will bring this about the buffing naturally.

 

[Beemer]

Probably, all you need is a good buffing (keep it clear of the cardboard) and you're good to go!
Paper towelling used as a rubbing pad works well (don't abrade the bellows or tape !)
Regular use will bring this about the buffing naturally.

Yes I will buff them. I also understand that Naptha lighter fluid will dissolve Verdigris.

 

[Dingo40]

Yes, but is it worth the risk of soaking it into the cardboard of the bellows?

 

[Beemer]

Yes, but is it worth the risk of soaking it into the cardboard of the bellows?

I was careful but the Naptha is not dissolving it. I now have used a Dremel with a pointed abrasive rubber bit on a couple of corners. With some effort it has removed the Verdigris and revealed that the corners are not plated steel but nickel/copper plated brass. So rust is not possible, which is good. I would have to remove the Verdigris and remove all the plating and let the brass naturally discolour. I'm thinking that I should leave it 'as a feature'

 

[JIM D.]

Your Hohner's bellows corners are indeed steel with a first layering of soft brass. Your scrubbing has removed the
very week chrome layer only. Hohner has been using these inferior plated bellows corners for many years now.
Many Hohner owners have been aware of this plating that will not hold up with continued contact with sweaty
hands. Some owners carry a polishing cloth and wipe the corners after every use.

 

[Beemer]

Your Hohner's bellows corners are indeed steel with a first layering of soft brass. Your scrubbing has removed the
very week chrome layer only. Hohner has been using these inferior plated bellows corners for many years now.
Many Hohner owners have been aware of this plating that will not hold up with continued contact with sweaty
hands. Some owners carry a polishing cloth and wipe the corners after every use.

Jim,
I would have thought that my 57 year old German made Hohner would not have used 'inferior plated corners'.

 

[Dingo40]

Not pointing the finger at Honer specifically, but I must say there are many instances of disappointingly cheap plating of " bright work" to be found even on many older accordions, where you wouldn't have expected: it seems to have been a particularly weak manufacturing point.

 

[Ffingers]

Jim,
I would have thought that my 57 year old German made Hohner would not have used 'inferior plated corners'.

I would not have thought that my 1965 Mercedes motor car was likewise endowed with inferior plated bumpers and brightware.
What we are told and what is delivered are rarely the same.
VW diesels?

 

[Dingo40]

The outstanding bit of chrome plating I remember is that on the hubcaps of my erstwhile '59 Beetle. They were everlasting; I had that car 15 years.
However, my Hyundai "Accent" manual 5 speed gearbox trumps even that: 21 years, original paint, no rust, 180 k km, just replaced timing belt (preemptive 2nd replacement), replaced fuel pump, still no noticeable oil burning) & runs like new: more reliable, comfortable and durable than the VW Beetle! Kept it as a backup.

 

[Beemer]

The outstanding bit of chrome plating I remember is that on the hubcaps of my erstwhile '59 Beetle. They were everlasting; I had that car 15 years.
However, my Hyundai "Accent" manual 5 speed gearbox trumps even that: 21 years, original paint, no rust, 180 k km, just replaced timing belt (preemptive 2nd replacement), replaced fuel pump, still no noticeable oil burning) & runs like new: more reliable, comfortable and durable than the VW Beetle! Kept it as a backup.

The chromium technology used then was 'triple plating'.

 

[Ventura]

there is another variable causing the varied de-plating problems, as well
as the pocking of treble keytops

each of us has a bit of defference in our personal chemistry, and some
humans just naturally tear up the chrome with barely a touch, while others
can blithely never wipe down their instruments at all

 

[Beemer]

there is another variable causing the varied de-plating problems, as well
as the pocking of treble keytops

each of us has a bit of defference in our personal chemistry, and some
humans just naturally tear up the chrome with barely a touch, while others
can blithely never wipe down their instruments at all

Is it chrome or is it nickel?