Keyboard Action

[NYCSTEV]

Hello all. I need some advice on which accordions have the best keyboard action and response. I have a used Tango LMM 11 34/96 , but it seems a bit clunky.
I am actually returning to accordion after 35 years of piano.!! thanks!.

 

[Zevy]

Hello all. I need some advice on which accordions have the best keyboard action and response. I have a used Tango LMM 11 34/96 , but it seems a bit clunky.
I am actually returning to accordion after 35 years of piano.!! thanks!.

You have to try the particular accordion to see and feel the action. No two accordions are alike, even if they have the same name and model number.

 

[Ben-jammin]

Any quality instrument made within the past 60 to 65ish years should have useable “action” but people have different perspectives about what’s ideal. Response though is a combination of the quality of the reeds AND the health of the reed “leathers” valves. If you have dried out curled valves (which is quite probable with a vintage accordion) response can be underwhelming. This can be helped by having the instrument serviced but that can be expensive. With used accordions condition is paramount! If you want the best, it’s easy to drop 10k or greater on an accordion with handmade reeds. If I were you I would look for a used italian accordion made after mid 50s that’s in good condition and ticks the other boxes for features. Keep in mind Buying online is a gamble.

 

[colinm]

Hello all. I need some advice on which accordions have the best keyboard action and response. I have a used Tango LMM 11 34/96 , but it seems a bit clunky.
I am actually returning to accordion after 35 years of piano.!! thanks!.

For me, the best keyboard action is one which has scissor springs rather than compression springs, and the best response is from good quality hand made reeds, however you need to try before you buy, beware salesmens advice.

 

[NYCSTEV]

For me, the best keyboard action is one which has scissor springs rather than compression springs, and the best response is from good quality hand made reeds, however you need to try before you buy, beware salesmens advice.

thanks . how do I know if it has these springs and hand made reeds? What brands or price range would this fall into new?

 

[colinm]

I am just a self taught amateur like you, but if you can see a small cap at the end of the keyboard, it probably has scissor springs, the cap will have small screws holding it in position, and this is where you remove the keyboard axle.
No cap, then no axle and the springs will be compression type.
Hand made reeds, may have the makers name stamped on some of them, the reeds usually respond to lower pressure and play softer as well as loud.
I think the reeds are about £3 each extra, i think no maybe no difference in price of springs.
You have to check with the seller , but then check for yourself, try the keys and listen to the sound of the reeds at low pressure.
Keep asking questions.

 

[boxplayer4000]

NYCSTEV:
You have a 'common' problem with older accordions.
I think your query is aimed at the keyboard itself and this is what I will restrict my answer to.
Keyboard pallets (valves I think in your part of the world) are lined with felt and fine leather to create a quiet air seal. With age and use the
felt/leather pads become compacted/hard and noisy. Any compaction can be quite easily seen by looking at the two keys at each end of the keyboard. When new most makers set those keys to be level with keyboard ends. The amount the key ends depress when played is important for comfort and the state of the felt/leather affects this.
The state of the reeds is obviously a separate question which greatly affects the playing comfort and you may have reached the classic point for many accordion owners ie. is the accordion worth having money spent on it?
However if your a good-do -it yoursefer you may find the information on this very helpful site to go ahead yourself.

 

[NYCSTEV]

Any quality instrument made within the past 60 to 65ish years should have useable “action” but people have different perspectives about what’s ideal. Response though is a combination of the quality of the reeds AND the health of the reed “leathers” valves. If you have dried out curled valves (which is quite probable with a vintage accordion) response can be underwhelming. This can be helped by having the instrument serviced but that can be expensive. With used accordions condition is paramount! If you want the best, it’s easy to drop 10k or greater on an accordion with handmade reeds. If I were you I would look for a used italian accordion made after mid 50s that’s in good condition and ticks the other boxes for features. Keep in mind Buying online is a gamble.

Is a keyboard length of 17.5" (for 37 keys) considered to be about as wide as it will get on an accordion? Again, I am used to full size piano keys. Thanks

 

[Ben-jammin]

for a 41 key instrument, measurements between about 19 to 19.5” are considered “full size” I’ve heard of some slightly bigger. For 37 keys I think 17.5” is in line and should have similar sized keys.

 

[Ventura]

regarding action, there is one primary, specific and critical physical difference to take into account

when you remove that little oval plastic or metal cap on the outside edge of the keybed,
there can be one (1) OR two (2) pivot rods revealed

all accordions with 2 pivot rods will have superior action... this is because the fulcrum point
really needs to be different between the white and black keys, so as to somewhat
"equalize" the "throw" between the two rows, which obviously have different lengths and
therefore cannot have the same pressure and feel if they also share a single pivot point.

the next action difference can be simply the length of the keys themselves, which on classic era
accordions could vary somewhat between manufacturers.

there is also a consideration of the material the keys are made from... it had been
generally considered in my circle that Walnut made the best keys, and you will notice
this on many high end accordions

there is also a consideration if you audition a 3/4 or smaller sized accordion... because there is
not enough body width to accommodate the entire white row side by side
(in the action UNDER the grille) therefore
you will see a few of the naturals have various "rube Goldberg" mechanisms added that
cut and re-route the action to a reed and opening that is on the sharps reedblock to
accommodate this necessity

obviously that not only changes the relative feel of those keys, but the position of the sound
from their reeds relative to where it (should) come out naturally and physically

generally speaking, where classic era accordion mechanicals can vary considerably
between brands, nowadays there are only a few actual manufacturers of accordion
actions, and most accordion assemblers/builders buy from this limited resource...
therefore the only difference in "feel" between many brands is based on the care
and finesse with which the specific accordion was given toward FINISHING the action

Finally, as a Pianist, you are used to weighted actions... and if you wish to more
closely match your motor memory in an accordion action, once you have made
a final selection of instrument, you could also have a master technician re-work
the action with a slightly stronger spring resistance

ciao

Ventura

 

[Caps]

Ventura good info but the only problem there is finding a master technician in the US. I would like to have my Sonola SS15 gone over and optimized but where to take it? Touch is fine and is in good tune but wax and leathers are looking a bit dry.

 

[bluesette]

I need some advice on which accordions have the best keyboard action and response.

For PA : I don't know because I have not enough experience.
For CBA : (imo) Cavagnolo

 

[debra]

Zevy already gave the best answer: you have to try the individual accordion. It is not a matter of brand or age of the accordion. Each accordion will require a different amount of force. Bad accordions will require a significantly different force for black versus white keys (Chinese accordions are guilty of this in almost all cases) or between the different rows of a CBA.
But I for instance have two Bugari accordions (both "Artist Cassotto" and both with convertor) and one requires noticeably more force than the other. Less force is not necessarily always a good thing. My accordion that requires the least amount of force is also the most delicate in terms of how precisely you need to hit the buttons. Of there is even just a hint of also touching an adjacent button that note will also play (briefly). That hint of touching an adjacent button will not actually cause that note to play when more force is needed.