Hohner Atlantic keyboard

[jollyrogeraccordions]

9Hi,
I’ve dismantled quite a few Hohner Atlantic keyboards and all the ones I’ve seen up until now have easily removable keys, with a release screw for each key.
However, the only way in I can see on the one pictured is by the 5 screws holding (what I assume to be) a long plate underneath the keys. I can’t see any other way in. I released the screws but the keyboard didn’t immediately come off, so here I am. Anyone seen this type of Atlantic keyboard before, and can offer advice on how to remove the keys? Some of the keys are sticky so I need to get in to sort it out.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8MBYwwEmhZYLGsBi6

 

[debra]

At the back of each key (below the "arm") you can see a flat metal part. This you can pull out (towards the back) and that releases the key. It is a quite common Hohner keyboard mechanism, shared at least between the Verdi N and Atlantic N series.

 

[jollyrogeraccordions]

At the back of each key (below the "arm") you can see a flat metal part. This you can pull out (towards the back) and that releases the key. It is a quite common Hohner keyboard mechanism, shared at least between the Verdi N and Atlantic N series.

Ah! Paul! Thanks!

 

[nagant27]

Very interesting, and seems very practical to fix one key. So you don't need to remove those 5 screws? Is it just pushing back the key to like detach it? And are those keys entirely made of plastic?

 

[jollyrogeraccordions]

Very interesting, and seems very practical to fix one key.  So you don't need to remove those 5 screws?  Is it just pushing back the key to like detach it?  And are those keys entirely made of plastic?

Yes, with Paul's help... 
you can see in the pic (just about) there is a brass plate under the arm, with a little hole. With a pointed tool (a small screwdriver) you pull the plate and this releases the key from the axle. Actually a bit nicer than the old design.

 

[jollyrogeraccordions]

More on sticky keys... the keys are guided underneath by a little cube of rubber, fixed to the frame underneath, and which slides into a slot on the underside of each key when it’s pressed down. at the opposite end to the pivot point. Some of these had become perhaps a bit tacky through undersuse, causing the key to jam or not move freely. My solution, after trying all sorts of cleaning etc...take off each cube (they pull off the frame easily) and with some fine glass paper smooth the cube a bit...I.e. reduce its width by enough to stop the stickiness... though it’s a tiny tiny amount (I did think of trimming with a knife, but there's too much risk of taking off too much). Coat the cube with talcum powder, replace and that solves the problem.

 

[debra]

More on sticky keys... the keys are guided underneath by a little cube of rubber, fixed to the frame underneath, and which slides into a slot on the underside of each key when it’s pressed down.  at the opposite end to the pivot point. Some of these had become perhaps a bit tacky through undersuse, causing the key to jam or not move freely. My solution, after trying all sorts of cleaning etc...take off each cube (they pull off the frame easily) and with some fine glass paper smooth the cube a bit...I.e. reduce its width by enough to stop the stickiness... though it’s a tiny tiny amount (I did think of trimming with a knife, but there's too much risk of taking off too much). Coat the cube with talcum powder, replace and that solves the problem.

Good advice. Some Hohners have a small piece of felt instead of rubber. It too can get sticky due to grease and dirt. A word of warning against taking off too much is certainly deserved here: the rubber of felt has to fit snugly enough to keep the key from moving sideways. There is very little clearance between the keys and if a key can move left or right just a bit the keys may touch each other while playing, causing a clacking sound. It can be a tricky job to adjust the metal piece that holds the rubber or felt to hold each key exactly in the right position. Also, if the keys have come up just a little bit (for instance when they get caught on the straps) they are not held in place when not pushed and you can again get the clicking sound.

You have to keep in mind that Hohner, in an attempt to cut cost (without lowering consumer prices), has used cheap all-plastic keys for the keyboard, not wood like in better accordions. So you can't expect miracles from this cleap construction.

 

[Dingo40]

More on sticky keys... the keys are guided underneath by a little cube of rubber, fixed to the frame underneath, and which slides into a slot on the underside of each key when it’s pressed down.  at the opposite end to the pivot point. Some of these had become perhaps a bit tacky through undersuse, causing the key to jam or not move freely...

This reminds me of a similar problem found in various veteran photographic cameras, namely small rubber shutter buffers and external rubber fittings simply “melted” (due to the chemical decomposition of the ‘rubber’ itself) producing a viscous sticky exudate that intefered with the working of the shutter or affected the feel of the camera by sticking to the photographer’s fingers,  
There was no practical cure for the condition other than a fresh replacement part. Even dusting with talcum powder eventually failed, as the decomposition is ongoing and the exudate ultimately seeps through.
Perhaps things will work out more permanently in this case. :shy:

 

[jollyrogeraccordions]

More on sticky keys... the keys are guided underneath by a little cube of rubber, fixed to the frame underneath, and which slides into a slot on the underside of each key when it’s pressed down.  at the opposite end to the pivot point. Some of these had become perhaps a bit tacky through undersuse, causing the key to jam or not move freely...

This reminds me of a similar problem found in various veteran photographic cameras, namely small rubber shutter buffers and external rubber fittings simply “melted” (due to the chemical decomposition of the ‘rubber’ itself) producing a viscous sticky exudate that intefered with the working of the shutter or affected the feel of the camera by sticking to the photographer’s fingers,  
There was no practical cure for the condition other than a fresh replacement part. Even dusting with talcum powder eventually failed, as the decomposition is ongoing and the exudate ultimately seeps through.
Perhaps things will work out more permanently in this case. :shy:

I know what you mean about rubber parts on cameras. The rubber guides didn’t feel sticky, but were offering up just enough resistance to cause a problem. So I don’t think they have got to the gooey stage. In fact they felt and looked perfectly ok.

 

[AndyM]

Thanks for the good advice re how to remove the keys. My Atlantic N series has a couple of 'clacky' keys, which I need to fix.

 

[debra]

Thanks for the good advice re how to remove the keys. My Atlantic N series has a couple of 'clacky' keys, which I need to fix.

Clacky keys may be the result of the keys sitting slightly too high and as a result  the rubber or felt guide underneath does not hold the key in place. It may be easier to raise the guide a bit than to lower the keys.

 

[AndyM]

Thanks for the information Paul!

Mine has the felt bushes mounted on a pin underneath each key. Only some keys are clacky, mainly around the middle section of the keyboard, so I suspect the clackiness may be due to wear. Strings and Boxes sell new felt bushes, so I'm going to replace all of them.

 

[debra]

Thanks for the information Paul!

Mine has the felt bushes mounted on a pin underneath each key. Only some keys are clacky, mainly around the middle section of the keyboard, so I suspect the clackiness may be due to wear. Strings and Boxes sell new felt bushes, so I'm going to replace all of them.

You should really check whether the keys in that middle section do not have just a bit more travel than the other notes. I have been able to fix Atlantic N series keyboards with clacky keys by lifting the pins with the felt bushes just a bit so they hold the keys in place when not pressed. There is a fine line between "just right" and "not enough support". If the felt bushes do not really sit inside the key because of a slightly raised key then new bushes are not going to help. It's there position that's the problem.

 

[AndyM]

Thanks again for the advice Paul, you've been most helpful.

The white keys all appear to be aligned with each other - looking along the edge of the keyboard they're in a nice straight line, but they could all be a bit higher than they should be. But that implies that they should all be equally clacky. I'll check their height position relative to the pin and felt bush underneath before replacing the bushes.

Thanks agin for your help.

 

[AndyM]

Finally got round to dismantling the keyboard - replacing the felt bushes has fixed the problem !! Keys have no sideways movement and the gaps between the keys are all the same. After replacing the felt bushes and keys, I found that some keys were actually a bit tight and would not return to the rest position, so I gave the felt a slight sideways squeeze with tweezers and now all are working well. Keys move freely up and down and don't touch the keys next to them.
I took some measurments and found that there is 4mm of clearance between the top of the pin and the underside of the key, when it is pressed, so there is still some scope to raise the pins, but as it is, they are well engaged into the key guide.

 

[debra]

Finally got round to dismantling the keyboard - replacing the felt bushes has fixed the problem !!  Keys have no sideways movement and the gaps between the keys are all the same. After replacing the felt bushes and keys, I found that some keys were actually a bit tight and would not return to the rest position, so I gave the felt a slight sideways squeeze with tweezers and now all are working well. Keys move freely up and down and don't touch the keys next to them.
I took some measurments and found that there is 4mm of clearance between the top of the pin and the underside of the key, when it is pressed, so there is still some scope to raise the pins, but as it is, they are well engaged into the key guide.

Great to hear you had success! Accordions are generally very durable but things like felt do not stay "good as new" for more than a few decades...

 

[AndyM]

Thanks Paul! The keys feel sturdy and quiet, so much nicer to play now.