F sharp in bass sounding continuously

[colinm]

After a .5 m fall on to a carpeted floor my f sharp bass is sounding continuously, I can see no cracks in the case, from the inside the valves appear to be closed, but I cannot confirm this because I have the bellows off and reed blocks out to see the valves, I can see no torch light shone through. All buttons appear normal.
I assume i have no option other than removing the bass section piece by piece until I find the problem.
Any ideas please ?

 

[Pipemajor]

After a .5 m fall on to a carpeted floor my f sharp bass is sounding continuously, I can see no cracks in the case, from the inside the valves appear to be closed, but I cannot confirm this because I have the bellows off and reed blocks out to see the valves, I can see no torch light shone through. All buttons appear normal.
I assume i have no option other than removing the bass section piece by piece until I find the problem.
Any ideas please ?

Ouch! Sorry, can't help, but I feel for you

 

[Tom]

Before you take the bass all apart, check that the rod has not “jumped the pin.” I don’t know the technical terms for this but I’ve seen it happen when accordions are dropped. There was talk of this in another thread with a good explanation by Paul Debra. Maybe he will chime in later or you can find that thread.

The bass button is on top of a rod that has pins going out. The pins push down on other rods. Sometimes the first ones “jump over” the second. Don’t know if this is the case with yours but worth a look.

 

[debra]

If the buttons all look normal then you do not have the "jumped pin" problem. Something may have come loose inside the bass mechanics, maybe something broken off.
To really see whether the pallets are still closing properly, dim the lights, then shine a torch through the bass mechanism (moving from side to side) and look where you have removed the reed blocks to check whether the line shines through somewhere. If you see a light, that's where a pallet isn't closing properly.
And since you already know it's an F# you can check where the pallets for F# are because one of these must be leaking.

 

[colinm]

Tom,
I have checked all those that i can see, but after the first 2 rows it is very difficult to see and there are 6 rows. Correction ,3 rows , its 96 bass, getting easier every minute

 

[colinm]

If the buttons all look normal then you do not have the "jumped pin" problem. Something may have come loose inside the bass mechanics, maybe something broken off.
To really see whether the pallets are still closing properly, dim the lights, then shine a torch through the bass mechanism (moving from side to side) and look where you have removed the reed blocks to check whether the line shines through somewhere. If you see a light, that's where a pallet isn't closing properly.
And since you already know it's an F# you can check where the pallets for F# are because one of these must be leaking.

I am assuming that the pallet is leaking because f# is playing continuously opening and closing, so its remove all pistons !

 

[Tom]

Hmmmm, far be it from me to disagree with the master here, but I believe it is possible for the button to look ok, even with the jumped pin. Maybe when the rod pushed by the jumped pin is able to move, and the button still goes back up, or mostly back up? If it were mine, or one I was fixing, I would still check. Just my humble opinion, I am often wrong.

 

[Tom]

Tom,
I have checked all those that i can see, but after the first 2 rows it is very difficult to see and there are 6 rows.

Ugg! Good luck, wish I could pop over and help you.

 

[colinm]

Well after taking all the chord buttons out and panicking when i started to replace them because some of the pins were not touching the levers, I had a nights sleep and when I looked at it again I noticed that some of the pipes at the back were bowed down, they clicked back when up when I persuaded them with a small screwdriver.
You may be able to see the larger gap below the 4th tube in the attached photo, which I just happened to take as I progressed

 

[Tom]

Well after taking all the chord buttons out and panicking when i started to replace them because some of the pins were not touching the levers, I had a nights sleep and when I looked at it again I noticed that some of the pipes at the back were bowed down, they clicked back when up when I persuaded them with a small screwdriver.
You may be able to see the larger gap below the 4th tube in the attached photo, which I just happened to take as I progressed

Great find! The old “metal bent when dropped syndrome.” Hate it when that happens. They straighten out ok for you?

 

[colinm]

Yes it surprised me ,they just seemed to click from bowed to straight

 

[Tom]

Yes it surprised me ,they just seemed to click from bowed to straight

Cool! Fixed the problem?

 

[colinm]

Cool! Fixed the problem?

Yes as good as new

 

[Tom]

Yes as good as new

Yeaaaa!!!!!!