Dallape register switch repair

[FlickFlackAccordions]

On my previous post I mentioned the register switches not all working. I found the offender (I believe) (Maybe) (I sure hope)

In the attached pictures, I believe the rightmost switchplate has been somehow bent over that screw, and is causing several levers to not function correctly.

How should I go about bending it back into place?

Alternatively, possibly more dangerously, what is I cut out the bit of the switch plate that is stuck on the screw? Would that have any problems? That length of plate isn't connected to anything, so my thinking is that It would be fine.

 

[Dingo40]

Our member, Paul Debra, has relevant experience repairing selector switches. He may be able to give you some advice with yours

 

[FlickFlackAccordions]

Our member, Paul Debra, has relevant experience repairing selector switches. He may be able to give you some advice with yours

You and him have been so helpful in my many questions, thank you for it all!

 

[FlickFlackAccordions]

Our member, Paul Debra, has relevant experience repairing selector switches. He may be able to give you some advice with yours

Ah, update! I've gotten the slider off the screw, but I obviously, the screw still blocks the sliders path. I am not sure how it ever would've worked correctly. Maybe it has something to do with the bootleg amplifier system some dingbat added on.

 

[debra]

The soundboard cover can come off: it's the aluminium plate covered with the green gasket. There is a large number of small screws to undo and then the plate will come off, freeing up the register slider. You have to handle the register sliders gently and keep them absolutely straight. You can file or grind off a bit near the end on the side that touches the screw so that it can move freely again without touching the screw. Then put the soundboard cover back and tighten the screws (not too tight). All should be good to go then.
Before you start grinding or filing check that everything is correctly in place. Presumably the register sliders have worked when the accordion was new and the screws were also in place when the accordion was new, so make sure there is no other cause for the problem.

 

[JIM D.]

I your instance Paul's suggestion to remove some material from the end of the slide is your best bet on this one.

 

[FlickFlackAccordions]

Ok, I took your advice, and that ended up working out really well! The whole mechanism moves smoothly. But just one problem. Despite the mechanism moving smoothly, for whatever reason none of the register switches are able to be pushed down enough to fully close the piccolo reeds if they aren't using them. If I get in the mechanism and move the lever myself it works great, but the buttons just can't seem to do it all the way, leaving a slight crack for the piccolo to sound through. I believe this is a problem with the actual button, have you had to deal with anything like this?

The soundboard cover can come off: it's the aluminium plate covered with the green gasket. There is a large number of small screws to undo and then the plate will come off, freeing up the register slider. You have to handle the register sliders gently and keep them absolutely straight. You can file or grind off a bit near the end on the side that touches the screw so that it can move freely again without touching the screw. Then put the soundboard cover back and tighten the screws (not too tight). All should be good to go then.
Before you start grinding or filing check that everything is correctly in place. Presumably the register sliders have worked when the accordion was new and the screws were also in place when the accordion was new, so make sure there is no other cause for the problem

 

[debra]

Ok, I took your advice, and that ended up working out really well! The whole mechanism moves smoothly. But just one problem. Despite the mechanism moving smoothly, for whatever reason none of the register switches are able to be pushed down enough to fully close the piccolo reeds if they aren't using them. If I get in the mechanism and move the lever myself it works great, but the buttons just can't seem to do it all the way, leaving a slight crack for the piccolo to sound through. I believe this is a problem with the actual button, have you had to deal with anything like this?

There are several different ways the movement of the register buttons down to the sliders work.
The one below can easily be adjusted as there are threads on the end of the rods. (It can look differently but what you need to do is always the same: remove the locking ring (I can never remember the technical term) and then the rod can be turned which will make the slider open more or close more.

There are of course different mechanisms that are harder to adjust... Pictures would help to identify how it works on your accordion.

 

[Dingo40]

FFA,
Ah, update!
"I've gotten the slider off the screw, but obviously, the screw still blocks the sliders path."
Hmm... very odd. I wonder if that "screw " is original: clearly a manufacturing fault if it is !
What purpose does it serve?
Could it simply be removed, or replaced with a countersunk head type of screw, one that wouldn't foul the slider? (I can see countersunk screws in use on your sounding board.)
" the buttons just can't seem to do it all the way, leaving a slight crack for the piccolo to sound through. I believe this is a problem with the actual button, have you had to deal with anything like this?"
Could it be a previous owner has attempted to exert excessive force in trying to close the gap, thereby bending the lever on the actuating knob?
I have heard of these levers (metal) actually breaking away from the knobs (plastic) on high end Hohners so tread carefully !
(However, Paul has a method for glueing them together again using celluloid paste!)

 

[Dingo40]

On closer examination, I'd have say neither of those two oversized screws belong and it's got to be a bodgered* job, not only using inappropriate screws but also driving them into inappropriate places: I'd see if they can be eliminated and the holes made good.
I'd say the damage caused by inserting them is the reason for the malfunctioning of the couplers .
For example, it looks to me like one of the screws, on being driven in, snagged one of the slides bending it in the process. The other slide missed a similar fate only by the narrowest of margins.
I wonder what those screws are anchoring in the other side of that panel?
Can't imagine what they were thinking: Incredible!

*see here:
Bodger:
Noun
informal British

• A person who makes or repairs something badly or clumsily.

 

[FlickFlackAccordions]

Yeah that's what I was thinking. Had to be the same bugger who installed the internal mic that doesn't even work.

 

[FlickFlackAccordions]

FFA,
Ah, update!
"I've gotten the slider off the screw, but obviously, the screw still blocks the sliders path."
Hmm... very odd. I wonder if that "screw " is original: clearly a manufacturing fault if it is !
What purpose does it serve?
Could it simply be removed, or replaced with a countersunk head type of screw, one that wouldn't foul the slider? (I can see countersunk screws in use on your sounding board.)
" the buttons just can't seem to do it all the way, leaving a slight crack for the piccolo to sound through. I believe this is a problem with the actual button, have you had to deal with anything like this?"
Could it be a previous owner has attempted to exert excessive force in trying to close the gap, thereby bending the lever on the actuating knob?
I have heard of these levers (metal) actually breaking away from the knobs (plastic) on high end Hohners so tread carefully !
(However, Paul has a method for glueing them together again using celluloid paste!)

How can I get to the above mentioned levers to see if one is bent?

 

[JIM D.]

Most all high class pro accordions with have these treaded rods that connect the switch machine to the slides.
With age an accordion body will tend to in some portions to shrink a bit. This will cause the slide control rods to be
adjusted to allow the slides to open & close properly. Follow Paul's advice here and whlle your at it adjust them all.

 

[FlickFlackAccordions]

There are several different ways the movement of the register buttons down to the sliders work.
The one below can easily be adjusted as there are threads on the end of the rods. (It can look differently but what you need to do is always the same: remove the locking ring (I can never remember the technical term) and then the rod can be turned which will make the slider open more or close more.

There are of course different mechanisms that are harder to adjust... Pictures would help to identify how it works on your accordion.

I will post once I get home today, not too sure how to get in there though admittedly

 

[Ventura]

Yeah that's what I was thinking. Had to be the same bugger who installed the internal mic that doesn't even work.

do not understand why you are so angry about the Mic setup

that was the way they did it 70 years ago.. it wasn't a bad way
at all, there are much better ways NOW

and it is not the original installers fault, though he was clearly careful to
sink screws into correct and safe placement, and sealed the wire routing,

but you complain it doesn't work

well obviously someone (in the 70 years since) removed the mic element for some reason
unknown, but likely as salvage.

all that is left is the old aluminum mounting bracket and wire.. of COURSE it doesn't work anymore

it did work probably for years and on countless gigs and gave good value
to the original owner

and in fact there are still single internal bellows mounted Mic
systems sold and installed still to this day brand new that work

 

[Dingo40]

Ventura,
Even in those days it would, surely, have been poor workmanship to put oversized screws through coupler slides in such a way as to damage them and spoil the accordion ?

 

[FlickFlackAccordions]

do not understand why you are so angry about the Mic setup

that was the way they did it 70 years ago.. it wasn't a bad way
at all, there are much better ways NOW

and it is not the original installers fault, though he was clearly careful to
sink screws into correct and safe placement, and sealed the wire routing,

but you complain it doesn't work

well obviously someone (in the 70 years since) removed the mic element for some reason
unknown, but likely as salvage.

all that is left is the old aluminum mounting bracket and wire.. of COURSE it doesn't work anymore

it did work probably for years and on countless gigs and gave good value
to the original owner

and in fact there are still single internal bellows mounted Mic
systems sold and installed still to this day brand new that work

I am just opposed to any sort of messing with a beautiful accordion if it is not done by a professional, and based off of the poor screw placement, I think it is safe to say that is not the case. Though I might be a little biased because I strongly dislike the electric accordion sound! Takes the whole damn appeal of the instrument away!

 

[Ventura]

Ventura,
Even in those days it would, surely, have been poor workmanship to put oversized screws through coupler slides in such a way as to damage them and spoil the accordion ?

if the mic installer was the same person, i would agree

https://www.accordionists.info/attachments/20220729_155846-jpg.7061/

i was referencing that pic, which shows careful screw placement and
is correctly done for the time

i assume the Mic was added when the accordion was relatively new, which is when a mic would have
been of use to the owner

i assume the questionable repair was done late in it's life, by an amateur, in desperation

i imagine the owner of this new Dallape 75 years or so ago would have been
pleased with his added ability to play Amplified in a band, and i hope
he made a lot of money and had lots of fun before he wore the poor thing out

lord only knows what it went through after it passed from his hands

 

[godgi]

"cir clip" thats hat I know the little clips as.

 

[Dingo40]

Ventura,
"lord only knows what it went through after it passed from his hands".
Very true! Quite right!